The State Park Within A City

When you think of a state park, you think of a place where people go to escape the city and the pressures of daily life. But, in Texas, there is actually a state park where you can escape the city and stress, but still be in the city itself. I’m not talking about a state historical site, but a real state park with woods, water, fishing, scenic views, hiking and biking trails. As you might expect, that park would be found in Austin, a city which prides itself on keeping it “weird.”

McKinney Falls State Park is located on Austin’s southeast side. The park is named for Thomas McKinney, who came to Texas in the 1820’s, and years later, established a homestead, bred race horses, and built a flour mill along Onion Creek. Historical remnants of his life are still present in the park, in the form of his home and his horse trainer’s cabin.

There is an interpretive center, and the park also provides activities you would normally expect in a state park. There is camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, sightseeing, and many nice places for a picnic. In addition, however, you’ll find biking trails (so important for Austin’s active biking community), a dining hall which may be rented, an amphitheater, and wireless internet access.

In this, the beginning day of Thanksgiving Week 2009, under clear blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s, I was delighted that the park was crowded with school children, who, it appeared to me, were learning to fish for the first time. It was obvious, as lines, hooks, and fishing bobbers, were strewn among the limbs of the bald oak cypress trees lining the banks of Onion Creek. While I saw no fish being brought to shore, it looked like everyone was having a great time, me included.

For those living in Austin, Texas, there are advantages, not the least of which, is being able to “get away” without having to leave the city itself.

Pedernales Falls State Park

The Pedernales River begins from springs in Kimble County and crosses several hill country counties before it empties into Lake Travis. Running through a wild landscape filled with Live oak, Ashe juniper, cypress, and mesquite, the level of the river water rises and falls dramatically depending upon the seasonal cycles of rain.

Historically, the river was essential to the life of Native Americans, Spanish explorers, and European settlers. It was also very important in the life of President Lyndon Johnson, who was born and died, just steps away from the bank of the river. Today, the Pedernales is an important tributary for Lake Travis, and is a provider of hill country recreation. One pleasant spot along the river is Pedernales Falls State Park.

As parks go, this one is quite recent. Established as a park in 1971, the land had originally been a part of the Circle Bar Ranch. The park takes up over 5,000 acres of Blanco County, and is one of the fine natural resources in the hill country.

The major attraction is, of course, the falls. The falls are created by Pedernales River cascading down and over limestone rocks, and while it is in no way comparable to Niagara Falls, it is a quiet and scenic spot. There is a nice observation deck where it is possible to look out over the falls and the entire area; however, most people walk down the steps from the observation area down to the water, where they climb on the rocks in and around the falls. Since the Pedernales, like most rivers in the hill country, are prone to flash flooding, visitors are warned to be vigilant to changing weather conditions. Being out on the river during a sudden flash flood has taken lives in the past. Since the park considers the area around the falls particularly dangerous, it does not allow swimming, wading, or tubing. The large park does, however, have ample areas for people wishing to take part in those activities further downstream. The river also provides great opportunities for anglers, especially those wanting to hook catfish.

The river is not the only attraction in the park. Hiking, sightseeing, photography, and birdwatching are other popular activities which lure visitors to the area. Both modern and primitive camp sites are available for those who wish to spend one or more nights in the park.

Despite the fact that the park is relatively close to both Austin and Johnson City, once inside the solitude of the park, you feel like you are a million miles away from everything. That is a common feeling at so many places throughout the hill country.

My Favorite Texas Hill Country State Park – Inks Lake

I must admit, I have a favorite park among the state parks in the Texas Hill Country. It’s Inks Lake State Park. While there are many other wonderful state parks in the hill country, this one is special, at least to me.

State parks have been so very important to me all of my life. As a child, my parents would take “us boys,” all five siblings in the family, camping every summer. While we camped all over the United States, most of our camping was done in Michigan state parks. Except for the climate, the fauna, flora, and the scenery, Inks Lake State Park reminds me of the state parks in Michigan. Y’all must be scratching your heads by now wondering what I mean, or, if I’m crazy.

Based on my boyhood experiences, I judge a state park by many things. First and foremost, the attractiveness of its camping spots. A great state park has somewhat private camping spots that have trees, are near water, have nice views, a grill, and a fire ring. Next in importance, are the presence of hiking trails, and the availability of boating, swimming, and fishing. And last, but not least, there must be a park store. Inks Lake State Park has all of these, and more. Additionally, the park has quite a few small cabins available if you find yourself without a tent, travel trailer, or an RV, and need a place to stay. For golfers, there is a scenic golf course right next to the lake.

Like the other Highland Lakes of the hill country, Inks Lake is formed by a dam on the Colorado River. The area in and around Inks Lake State Park is prominently highlighted by large rock outcroppings of the pink colored Valley Spring gneiss. The area was the scene of cattle ranching during the 1800’s, and, this park, like many others during the 1930’s, was developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

One of the attractions of Inks Lake is the “Devils Waterhole.” It’s a spot where swimmers can jump off a cliff into a pool of deep water. Even if you don’t want to participate in this activity yourself, it is fun to watch.

Yesterday, during our repeat visit, we saw only a relatively few campers. How nice for them. The temperature was in the mid-70’s, with clear blue skies, and a beautiful park all to themselves. We saw many picnic tables at occupied campsites decorated with flowers and plants. These campers were succeeding in making a really nice location even nicer!

Inks Lake lives up to every one of my boyhood expectations of what constitutes a great state park.

Balcones Canyonlands National Wildlife Refuge

There is a Spanish word, “Balcones,” which means "balconies" in English. This is what the first Spanish explorers named the hill country just west of what is now Cedar Park, because the hills looked a like a series of balconies.

Today, the Balcones Canyonlands National Wildlife Refuge encompasses many thousands of acres of rugged hills and canyons. Located a little north of the Colorado River and Lake Travis, and just beyond the western edge of the city of Lago Vista, the refuge is an important habitat to many types of wildlife and native plants.

Balcones Canyonlands provides a sanctuary for several endangered species. Neotropical birds like the Black-capped Vireo and the Golden-cheeked Warbler are at the top of the list. Other birds too, over 250 species, have been spotted around the refuge.

In addition to birds, the Canyonlands is home to many other species, including but certainly not limited to butterflies, dragon flies, spiders, snakes, turtles, frogs, lizards, skinks, bats, armadillos, squirrels, rats, coyotes, foxes, raccoons, deer, feral pigs, and Tooth Cave Pseudoscorpions.

A few of the plants found in the refuge include Ashe junipers (referred to as “Cedars” here in the hill country), Live oaks, Shin oaks, Spanish oaks, Cactus, Mexican-buckeye, Texas persimmon, Texas mountain-laurel, and the Mountain grape, which is only native to Texas.

The refuge is open to the public and offers the visitor a number of entry points, hiking trails and observation decks. The entrance road into just one of the areas, the Warbler Vista area, on RM 1431, just west of Lago Vista, is an unpaved road with an uphill grade as you head in. Restrooms are available (along with a newly paved parking lot), but no water is provided. Please leave the dog at home, as pets are not allowed in the refuge.

There are three walking trails at Warbler Vista; Cactus Rocks Trail (0.6 miles), Ridgeline Trail (.75 miles), and Vista Knoll Trail (1.2 miles). The trailheads are well marked, and the hill country and lake views from the Sunset observation deck are outstanding. Interpretive literature is available in a box near the restrooms.

What you may see or hear during your visit to Canyonlands depends on the time of year you visit. Spring and summer are the peak seasons for Neotropical bird watching, while fall is the time of year when migrating Monarch butterflies, on their way to winter in Mexico, pass through the refuge. I was lucky enough to see one on my visit today.

One side benefit of the sanctuary's protection of endangered species and other wildlife, is the fact that the protected area is a huge tract of hill country land which will never be developed. This ensures future generations the ability to see this remarkable part of Texas, unfettered by residential and commercial development.

The refuge is open during daylight hours, and there is no admission fee.