Christmas Eve 2010 In The Texas Hill Country

As it has a habit of doing from time to time during the winter months, a cold front blew into the Texas Hill Country today, just in time to get everyone into the Christmas spirit. Although the morning temperature today was still in the 50’s, the rain made it feel much colder. And, on a day like this, most everyone in the hill country should take on an even greater understanding and appreciation of the hardships the Native Americans, Spanish explorers, and early settlers of the hill country faced when the weather turned cold. Actually, one does not even have to go back that far in time, as hill country folk did not even begin to receive electricity until the 1930’s, when the hill country’s favorite son, Lyndon Johnson, made it a reality.

Christmas Eve in the Texas Hill Country is no different than a lot of places around the country I guess, given the ample supply of shopping and outlet malls which cater to the last minute Christmas shopping "insanity" which seems to strike so many people this time of year. But unlike a lot of places, the hill country provides an alternative, should you choose to seek it.

My dog and I headed out into the remote solitude of the hill country this morning in an attempt to distance ourselves from cash registers, blinking lights, wrapping paper, and frenzied people. The cold and rain did not deter us in our quest to avoid the very worst things the holiday season brings, those being, commercialization, greed, the exchange of money, and stressed-out families. Except for the ever-present deer and birds found in the hill country, we did not run into another living thing on our journey, and that, to me, made for a successful day. It was, as it should be.

The quiet solitude of the hill country, the cold rain, and the companionship of my dog, gave me time to slow down, and reflect on the meaning of Christmas one day in advance of the day itself. Instead of last minute scurrying about and standing in long lines waiting to purchase something for someone that will no doubt be forgotten by noon on Christmas; I did something far more important. I took a few hours on the day before Christmas to find a quiet place in these historic hills to truly think about why Christmas Day is celebrated, and what it means for all of us.

PEACE.

Pedernales Falls State Park

The Pedernales River begins from springs in Kimble County and crosses several hill country counties before it empties into Lake Travis. Running through a wild landscape filled with Live oak, Ashe juniper, cypress, and mesquite, the level of the river water rises and falls dramatically depending upon the seasonal cycles of rain.

Historically, the river was essential to the life of Native Americans, Spanish explorers, and European settlers. It was also very important in the life of President Lyndon Johnson, who was born and died, just steps away from the bank of the river. Today, the Pedernales is an important tributary for Lake Travis, and is a provider of hill country recreation. One pleasant spot along the river is Pedernales Falls State Park.

As parks go, this one is quite recent. Established as a park in 1971, the land had originally been a part of the Circle Bar Ranch. The park takes up over 5,000 acres of Blanco County, and is one of the fine natural resources in the hill country.

The major attraction is, of course, the falls. The falls are created by Pedernales River cascading down and over limestone rocks, and while it is in no way comparable to Niagara Falls, it is a quiet and scenic spot. There is a nice observation deck where it is possible to look out over the falls and the entire area; however, most people walk down the steps from the observation area down to the water, where they climb on the rocks in and around the falls. Since the Pedernales, like most rivers in the hill country, are prone to flash flooding, visitors are warned to be vigilant to changing weather conditions. Being out on the river during a sudden flash flood has taken lives in the past. Since the park considers the area around the falls particularly dangerous, it does not allow swimming, wading, or tubing. The large park does, however, have ample areas for people wishing to take part in those activities further downstream. The river also provides great opportunities for anglers, especially those wanting to hook catfish.

The river is not the only attraction in the park. Hiking, sightseeing, photography, and birdwatching are other popular activities which lure visitors to the area. Both modern and primitive camp sites are available for those who wish to spend one or more nights in the park.

Despite the fact that the park is relatively close to both Austin and Johnson City, once inside the solitude of the park, you feel like you are a million miles away from everything. That is a common feeling at so many places throughout the hill country.

Fredericksburg, Texas

A visitor to the Texas Hill Country needs to pay a visit to Fredericksburg to make the journey complete.

Fredericksburg’s history, like so many things in the hill country, is both based and intertwined with the strong German influence of the region. Today, it is without a doubt, the most visible and important town representing the German history of the area. Coming in from the east, if you stop at all the interesting places along U.S. Highway 290, you might never make it to Fredericksburg.

If you are a history buff, then once you drive into Johnson City, the highway almost literally becomes the history of President Lyndon Baines Johnson’s life. His birthplace, the first school he attended, his grandfather's home, the LBJ Ranch and Texas White House, his grave and that of his wife, "Lady Bird," are located near Stonewall. The Johnson family ancestral settlement and his childhood home located in Johnson City, along with the prior mentioned Stonewall sites, are all on the way to Fredericksburg.

Vineyards, wineries, peach orchards, and pecan trees are found on both sides of the highway. Peaches can be purchased at fruit stands in season, along with locally grown berries, nuts, and vegetables. The various wineries have tasting rooms and wine sales. Several places sell homemade peach ice cream. I don’t need to describe how well that goes down on a hot day.

Closer to Fredericksburg is a place to visit called Wildseed Farms, which touts itself as “The Largest Working Wildflower Farm.” And speaking of wildflowers, traveling on Highway 290 during the spring when the wildflowers are blooming is magnificent, and once seen, will not be forgotten.

Just on the eastern edge of Fredericksburg is Fort Martin Scott. The fort was one of the early military posts on the Texas frontier, and now provides the visitor a view of U.S. Army life long ago. The fort is named after a soldier who was killed during the War with Mexico in the late 1840's.

If you are the type of person that likes to stop and look at everything (and we know who we are, don’t we?), don’t expect to stop at every interesting point, historical site, and market along the highway and still think you’re going to make it through everything Fredericksburg has to offer in one day. The speed limit is 70 miles per hour for most of the trip, but that won’t help you. But that’s okay, because Fredericksburg has plenty of lodging, including Bed and Breakfast accommodations.

The historic area of Fredericksburg lies along both sides of the highway, and it would be hard not to appreciate the old historic buildings and covered sidewalks, even if you’re not an architect or historian.

Fredericksburg is also the birthplace of Admiral Chester Nimitz, and you can visit his birth home, which is now home to Grace’s Art Gallery. The National Museum of the Pacific War is also located in Fredericksburg, given the obvious historical tie to Admiral Nimitz.

Most folks visit Fredericksburg to shop. Unlike a lot of so-called tourist towns, this is not a place to pick up cheap t-shirts. The shopping in Fredericksburg is diverse, and interesting, and includes any number of shops selling antiques, books and maps about Texas, artwork, and, clothing. Vegetables, fruits, and other foods, preserved in Mason jars, are also for sale. In my opinion, some stores are a bit pricey, but you are certainly free to browse. The shop owners, like most people in the hill country, are very friendly.

There are a lot of fine restaurants in Fredericksburg, with a lot of delicious German-oriented food. If you are not a fan of that, then anything you would normally order is readily available and quite good. You can also enjoy live music while savoring a drink at several places around town, and there are various festivals held throughout the year.

Well, I’ve rambled on long enough. But, this should be fair warning if you are planning to visit. Unless you are the kind of person that doesn’t stop at anything and just hurries past things to say you’ve been there (and you know who you are, don’t you?), slow down, take a couple of days, and experience the highway into and around Fredericksburg. You won’t regret it.