“Will Ride Train For Grilled Cheese”

On December 13, 2009, I published a less than flattering article about Austin’s attempt to get its light rail commuter train up and running (MetroRail). Among other things, I pointed out that both the “Austin Rail Project and the Transcontinental Railroad took six years to complete. The Transcontinental Railroad was built from scratch and covered over a thousand miles. The Austin project used an existing rail line and covered a little more than thirty miles. The Transcontinental Railroad spanned the Great Plains and mountain ranges. The Austin Rail Project, well, to be kind, did not.” Finally, after experiencing one delay after another, Capital MetroRail finally began service in March of 2010.

Despite the fact that I really like trains, and was looking forward to riding MetroRail once it started service, for one reason or another it took me over a year to decide to climb aboard, but last week, I did just that. And, I must tell you, I enjoyed the experience.

The rail system essentially runs from Austin’s Convention Center downtown north to Leander, a distance of some 30 miles. There are a total of nine stations along the way at which passengers can purchase tickets and get on or off the train. I decided to head downtown from the Lakeline Station, one stop south of Leander. The Lakeline Station had ample parking in its Park & Ride Lot, and the ticket vending machines were easy to use, even to a first-time rider like me. For $5.50, I purchased a MetroPlus Day Pass, which gave me a day’s access to the rail, as well as the bus rail connectors located at the various stations along the route. That’s not a bad price, considering the cost of a gallon of gas is currently between $3.50 and $4.00. Oddly, there is no gate or turnstile to pass through and nobody checks to see if you’ve purchased a ticket. With such an “honor system” in place, I wonder how many people just hop on board for a free ride. Perhaps they have random checks, but there was no evidence of it on the day I took a ride.

Capital MetroRail passed the most important test in my mind when the train arrived exactly on time. And, once it arrived, it didn’t stay long. Based on my experience, a word to the wise is probably in order. Arrive on time for this train or you’ll find yourself without a ride.

I purposely chose a schedule which avoided the so-called rush hour, so I could have a more relaxing ride. Not that the rush hour experience on this train would be anything like in New York or Tokyo, as this is Austin, and things are more than a little laid back down here. But, everything is relative I suppose, and I wanted to be as relaxed as I could possibly be to fully enjoy the experience.

Inside, the cars are squeaky clean, air-conditioned, and have large roomy cloth seats. There is plenty of overhead storage space, and the over-sized windows afford great views. There is a small section in each car with fold down tables. Apparently, this section was designed for people who, unlike me, actually want to get some work done and weren’t just along for the ride. Free, on-board Wi-Fi is available, and the cars accommodate bicycles.

The train was nearly deserted when I came aboard at the Lakeline Station, but with each subsequent stop, it became increasingly more active with people. As the speaker announced the arrival at each station in both English and Spanish, young professionals with laptops, musicians carrying guitars, young mothers with small children, and seniors all shuffled on and off the train. Initially, the rail line from Lakeline Station is mostly in the country. Every once in a while, the train would pass by some freight cars parked on side tracks. Given the fact that MetroRail shares the same track that the freight trains utilize, I was surprised by how smooth the ride was.

 As the train left Howard Station, the country scenery began to disappear and was replaced by urban views. Once past Kramer Station, it seemed as though we were passing right through the middle of people’s back yards. Upon arriving at MLK Jr. Station I got off and jumped on a connector bus, which was already waiting in the parking lot, and rode it to the Texas State Capitol Building. If you haven’t visited the place, it’s well worth a visit. Unlike most state capitol buildings around the country, this one is actually quite popular as a tourist destination, but then again, this is Texas!

The reason for my visit to the building had nothing to do with me playing tourist or having some important political matters to discuss with state legislators. Rather, the purpose of my visit was strictly about food. Simply stated, the cafeteria in the capitol building serves up the best grilled cheese sandwiches around Austin, and you can wash it down with an ice cold bottle of Dublin Dr. Pepper. It really doesn’t get any better than that. And so, I stood in line, got my sandwich and drink, and had a great lunch at about 10:30 in the morning. Now then, I know what you’re thinking. Did this guy really drive from his home to a train station, get on a train and ride downtown, and then take a bus to the capitol building for a grilled cheese sandwich? Yes, I did just that, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

My “official business” at the capitol building having concluded, it was now time to find my way back home. I walked to the nearest rail connector bus stop, and took the bus to the Convention Center Station, where I boarded the train and headed back to Lakeline Station where I had parked my car. All in all, my little trip was a satisfying experience. And, as you can see, I’m very easily amused.

As for now, Capital MetroRail has only the one line, and does not run on weekends or in the evenings. There are discussions underway about possibly rectifying these drawbacks, but politics and money will ultimately decide whether anything is ever done. In the meantime, those who would like to use the rail at times other than normal weekday business hours are out of luck. Nevertheless, I’m really impressed with the way MetroRail has worked out.

My day on the train would have been perfect had it not been for one out of control grandmother on the ride back. Boarding the train downtown with her two small grandchildren, and, presumably her grown daughter, she literally never stopped talking the entire time. She was loud, obnoxious, and had an opinion on everything. She had three conversations going at once, and, if she didn’t know something, she would call someone on the phone to get the answer. She kept fussing at her grandchildren when, in fact, she just needed to close her mouth and relax. I had to chuckle when she told them, “This is the last time Grandma goes on a train ride.” I’m quite sure that her grandchildren were delighted to hear her say that, and, by the way, so was I.

Once Again, The Texas Wildflowers Are Blooming

Northern states are in the spotlight every fall, when the leaves on the trees turn bright and vivid colors. Springtime, however, is the time when the Texas Hill Country shines. For it is in this time of year when the famous hill country wildflowers bloom, and, once they are seen, they are never forgotten.

There are over 45 types of wildflowers found in the hill country. The species of flowers bloom at different times, but most bloom sometime between March and June. Of the most popular wildflowers, Bluebonnets and Texas Paintbrush are the early bloomers, as they usually show their best colors from March through April. Indian Blankets typically bloom a little later, with April and May being peak months. But, if you’re driving around the hill country anytime between March and June, or, perhaps a tad bit later, you’re going to see some type of wildflower, and plenty of them.

Last month, in February, there were a few early and sporadic sightings of Bluebonnets. A few weeks ago, the sightings began picking up significantly. Today, the fields of color are beginning to break out all over. Several days ago I drove down a road and didn’t see a single flower, but when I drove that same road today, I saw thousands of Bluebonnets, Indian Paintbrush, and other wildflowers.

The experts say that this is going to be a banner year for wildflowers in Texas, as it always is following a wet fall and winter. From early indications, they seem to be right. One thing is for sure, if you’ve always dreamed about seeing the colorful wildflowers in the hill country of Texas, this is a great year to make that dream come true.

Time To Celebrate: Lake Travis Is Full And The Current Drought Is Officially Over

Yesterday, the water level of Lake Travis rose above 681 feet above mean sea level (msl) for the first time since the fall of 2007, after dropping below 630 feet msl in late September of last year. The El Nino weather pattern is what normally brings Texas out of its recurring historical droughts, and the El Nino of the last 6 months was no exception, raising the level of Lake Travis over 51 feet since its lowest water level during the current drought.

The full pool of the lake, and the end of the drought, is great news and certainly cause for celebration in the Texas Hill Country. Last summer, the low lake level closed most, if not all, of the lake’s public boat ramps. This had a negative financial impact on businesses along the lake, including marinas, waterfront restaurants, music venues, hotels, and tourist rental properties. Equally bad, “sometimes islands” appeared on the lake, causing accidents and injuries, especially among boaters unfamiliar with the lake. And, residents across the hill country, dealt with the watering restrictions common in times of drought.

This year will be much different. Currently, the lake level is 10 feet above what the level would normally be during a typical March. Businesses along all of the Highland Lakes, including Lake Travis, will no doubt thrive this year, but, then again, this is Texas, the land of feast or famine. Texans in the hill country have learned how to adapt to fast changing weather and climate over the years. One year’s prosperity might bring something quite different the next year. We’ve seen it all before, and, many times.

But, given the current conditions, it is time to celebrate the “feast” of a full lake and the end of the current drought. I will enjoy it while I can, because Texas weather history tells me, it won’t last forever.

That One Particular Texas Road Sign

Like a lot of states, Texas has many wild critters that like to run across the roadways in front of passing automobile and truck traffic, including squirrels, skunks, turtles, possums, rabbits, and deer. Unlike a lot of states, however, Texas roadways are also sometimes visited by feral hogs and armadillos. As a motorist, dealing with wild animals darting across the road is always a problem, especially if it is something large like a deer or a hog. But, in many places in Texas, besides keeping a watchful eye for wild animals, the motorist needs to pay special attention to livestock on the road as well.

Texas is an open range state, which means that except along federal and main state highways, or where prohibited by local stock laws, livestock may roam at large. This results in livestock occasionally finding their way onto roadways where they endanger themselves as well as passing motorists.

Over the next several months, the roads of the hill country will be a little busier as folks head out to see the fields of Texas wildflowers. In addition to marveling at the colorful Bluebonnets, Indian Blankets, and other wildflowers, I, for one, will also be on the lookout for something else. While yellow and black, it is not a colorful flower, but a road sign with the words “Loose Livestock” on the front. I don’t know about you, but I’ve got enough challenges in my life without hitting a 2,000 pound Texas Longhorn while out driving around looking at pretty flowers.

Having Turkey Sausage At Billy Inman’s Place



Billy Inman

When I pulled up in front of Inman’s Ranch House in Marble Falls, and saw all the pickup trucks, I suspected I was on to something very good. Workers don’t waste their time or money on food which doesn’t deliver, and Inman’s has been around since 1964. Nevertheless, I was a little hesitant as I approached the old wood and screen entry door. Even though it was the only entrance I could see, it felt like I was entering someone’s private home, and with good reason.

Despite the fact that the owner, Billy Inman, doesn’t actually live in the place anymore, the building is, indeed, an old house. And, although I was a stranger, I was warmly greeted the minute I opened the door from a voice somewhere in the back of the place. I walked past two small rooms filled with a couple of tables and chairs (just like you’d see in a million homes across the country) to the friendly voice which had welcomed me. In the kitchen of this "house," I found Billy.

Billy Inman has a big smile and an engaging personality which only adds to the wonderful experience of his somewhat unique eatery. The man in line ahead of me asked Billy how he was doing, and Billy quickly replied, “If I was doing any better, I’d be fishing.” You really have to admire somebody like that. He’s got life all figured out, and he knows it.

The Inman family food story is well-known around these parts, so I won’t repeat it here in great detail, except to say that the Inman family got things going making turkey sausage in Llano, Texas in the early 1960's, with one of the Inman brothers eventually opening a place in Marble Falls in 1964. That brother was the father of Billy, and like any dutiful son, Billy learned the business at his father’s side.

Texas Hill Country foods are not well-known for turkey, perhaps, but the Inman family has perfected the art of making sausage from turkey, and the result is unbelievably good. The sausage, along with the homemade sauce, slaw, and bean offering, is made from scratch. This is down home food in a down home place at a very inexpensive price. And, although many hill country barbecue joints cook their food with mesquite, Billy is a big fan of oak, and his choice of wood produces an excellent result. He obviously knows what he’s doing.

Eating in the small and laid-back atmosphere in either one of his two “dining rooms,” you feel like a family guest invited over for lunch. Sitting among Billy’s regulars, you hear every word of every conversation, and it doesn’t take long before you know what’s going on in the town that day.


Turkey Sausage and all the Fixin's

Locally owned family restaurants are an important part of American history, and, unfortunately, they are quickly disappearing. Fortunately, however, for residents of the hill country, Billy Inman’s place is still around. And, just like the friendly greeting which I received when I entered, I got a nice good-bye and thanks when I left, just like you would expect to get as you depart someone’s personal residence. Given the character of the place, and the way he treats his guests, Billy must view the restaurant as an extension of his own home. And, that makes all the difference in the world, or, as the sign hanging on his kitchen wall states, "On Earth As It Is In Texas."

A Great Hamburger Is More Than Just The Sum Of Its Parts

In my opinion, you can’t judge a hamburger by any one of its many individual components. When determining whether a hamburger is worthy or not, you must consider it as one whole package. Praising the meat while damning the bun, or vice versa, makes no sense to me. A hamburger should be considered on how all of the components (meat, bun, toppings, and condiments) come together, because, unlike components of a traditional meal, the ingredients of a hamburger are eaten all at the same time.

Having said that, I do believe that the most important thing which determines whether a hamburger is the best it can be or not, is the bun. A great hamburger bun can make up for less than tasty meat more easily than a delicious meat patty can provide cover for a less than desirable bun. Over the years I’ve stopped eating burgers at more than one place because they decided to change their hamburger buns in some way. In some cases, they started serving less expensive buns, with predictable results. In other cases, they stopped toasting or grilling their buns. Despite how good the actual meat might have been, the bad bun tainted the entire experience. Like I said, with hamburgers, you must consider the entire package.

Because good meat, good hamburger buns, fresh toppings and quality condiments are so easily procured these days, it is no wonder that there are literally thousands of places around the country that serve great hamburgers. Despite all the variations of hamburgers there may be, the one common denominator of a great hamburger is that the preparer in each hamburger location clearly understands that a hamburger will rise or fall based upon just one of its individual components. In that regard, it’s like the old adage about a chain being “only as strong as its weakest link.”

When a hamburger place gets all of the components of a hamburger melding perfectly together, it is a wonderful thing indeed. It’s that first bite you take when you know whether you have a winner or not. It either works, or it doesn’t. It really is that simple.

Moonie’s Burger House in Cedar Park is one of those places which understand how important it is to blend good things together in order to make a great burger. There is no doubt, and certainly no secret around these parts, that the bun at Moonie’s is something special. But the meat is also very good, and the toppings are fresh. For two years straight, it has been voted as having the “best burgers and best fries” locally. I haven’t tried every place in the area, so I can’t offer my opinion on that, but what I will tell you is that the burgers here are excellent, and the first bite taken works every time. There is no weak component in a Moonie’s Burger.

Moonie’s offers a wide selection of hamburgers. Every one of the beef selections has a corresponding chicken offering, with all of the same toppings. Many of these selections are rather unique, including, but not limited to, “The Blue Moon,” which features bacon, tomato, red onions, and blue cheese, and the “Chili Cheese Burger With Frito’s On Top,” which has chili, cheese, Frito chips, lettuce, and onions. There is also a vegetarian offering available, called, appropriately enough, the “Veggie Burger” which consists of a veggie patty, lettuce, red onions, pickles and tomato.

My wife and I go to Moonie’s a heck of a lot more than once in a “Blue Moon” and we normally get the same thing every time we go there. I get the beef “Plain Jane with Cheese” and she gets the chicken “Plain Jane with Cheese.” The “Plain Jane” comes with mayonnaise, onions, lettuce, pickles, and tomato. Our preferred side is the sweet potato fries, which are always hot but not overly fried.

Moonie’s is one of those many hamburger places around the country which have figured out that a great hamburger is more than just the sum of its parts. And luckily, Moonie’s is located in the Texas Hill Country town of Cedar Park.

Lighting Up The Past: Austin’s Moonlight Towers

It’s hard to believe these days perhaps, but there was a time before ambient light polluted the night sky, that even some of the largest cities in the country were quite dark after the sun went down. This produced problems, not the least of which was increased evening crime.

In the late 1800’s, as innovations in technology made it possible, many municipalities turned to carbon arc lighting to brighten their streets, or, more specifically, their entire town. Unlike street lights which light up a relatively small area, the arc lights were hoisted on top of tall metal towers, sometimes hundreds of feet high. By placing many of these towers in strategic locations around the city, it was possible to light up nearly everything within the city limits. These towers, with their lights, were often called Moonlight Towers.

In the mid 1890’s, Austin was one of the cities which decided to erect the lighting system. Austin bought 31 towers with accompanying lighting equipment from Detroit, Michigan, a city which had received a lot of favorable press since installing the system itself.

Many citizens in Austin, perhaps not as technologically sophisticated as those living in Detroit at the time, worried about the ill effects of living in a city where it would never get dark. Some predicted dire consequences on everything from animals to plants. It didn’t take long after the lights were first lit, however, for the skeptics to see that the ever-present artificial “Moon Light” was harmless.

Over the years, the unique lighting system, which had been installed in so many places around the country, has been phased out in favor of lighting which is easier to maintain and much less expensive. The one exception is Austin, Texas. The city remains the country’s sole remaining location where the towers are still present and the lights illuminate the city from very high above, every night of the year.

Of course, with the passage of time, the towers have all been repaired and restored, and the technology of the lights updated. The actual number of existing towers has been reduced, for one reason or another, by about half. Critics over the years have cited both cost and the unsightliness of the towers to call for their removal, but to no avail. This is Austin after all, a city which takes pride in being different. This city pride, which has preserved the towers and the special lighting system, continues to "lighten" a tangible link through Austin’s past. For that, we can all be grateful.

The “Live Music Capital Of The World” Greets Visitors With Some Very Large Guitars

Soon after visitors step off arriving airplanes at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport, they are reminded in a very big way, as though they need any reminding at all, that Austin is indeed the “Live Music Capital of the World.”

While music lovers disembarking off planes will instantly recognize the distinctive shape of the Gibson Les Paul guitar sculptures displayed at the airport, they will be unfamiliar with the size of the guitars. The eight guitars, made from fiberglass, are each 10-foot tall and are decorated by different artists.

Austin businessman, Milton Verret, purchased the “Big Guitars” a couple of years ago at an auction to raise money for local Austin area charities, and then donated them to the city of Austin. Given Austin’s live music tradition, there probably could not be a more appropriate gift to the city.

Les Paul, the musical genius and inventor of a great guitar, died during this past year. Long before he passed, however, he was already a legend. It appears that the size of his guitars, like the music legend himself, will continue to grow with each passing year. And the contributions of Les Paul to the history of music, as now reflected by the “Big Guitars,” could not possibly have a better home than the “Live Music Capital of the World,” Austin, Texas.

Tree Of Remembrance

Growing tall on the south shore of Lady Bird Lake in Austin, is a tree like so many others, except for the fact that hanging from its limbs are paper swans with a name on each and every one, and a memorial plaque at its base. It is, the “Tree of Remembrance.”

And while the tree, planted in 1993 by House The Homeless, Inc., in remembrance of the homeless who have died on the streets of Austin continues to grow, unfortunately, so do the numbers of homeless deaths in the city since that time. Every November at the site of the tree, a memorial service is held. And while much has changed in the world since 1993, the homeless are still dying on the streets of Austin. So far this year, there have been over 150 homeless persons who never made it off the streets. While Austin is certainly not alone with this issue, it is a tragedy wherever it occurs in this world of ours.

Austin, Texas, along with the neighboring hill country, is blessed with great scenery, important history, wonderful food, outstanding music, exciting events, and interesting people. There are, therefore, a lot of things people living in or travelling through the region can see, but the Tree of Remembrance, is not only something which can be seen, it must be seen.

It’s A Dog’s World

It’s a dog’s world.

Anyone who doesn’t believe that is true has never been to Austin, Texas. The city has 12 places where dogs can be off-leash. One of the larger and more popular off-leash spots is at Auditorium Shores, along Lady Bird Lake. Dogs roaming with their canine buddies at Auditorium Shores have it all going for them.

First and foremost, for a dog, it’s the place to see and be seen in Austin. If you’re a dog, you must know you’ve arrived when your owner takes you there. Dogs can mingle and show off their athletic prowess chasing balls, sticks, flying discs, and whatever else can be thrown for them to retrieve.

Next, dogs at Auditorium Shores “strut their stuff” in full view of the Austin skyline. I’m sure they know, at some level, that residents of high rise condominiums across the lake, with telescopes and binoculars, are watching them shamelessly cavorting and frolicking.

And speaking of the lake, there is a beach, of sorts, where dogs can swim and cool off. I’ve seen bigger dogs swim almost the width of the lake to retrieve a ball an owner has thrown. Michael Phelps is a great swimmer, but I’ve never seen him swim way out into a lake and retrieve a ball with his mouth and bring it back. These dogs, showing off on their own miniature version of “Muscle Beach,” could certainly teach Mr. Phelps a thing or two.

Lastly, the dogs are happy knowing that Auditorium Shores has an ample supply of Mutt Mitt boxes, which provides the owners of the dogs running around without a leash, the high honor, and distinct privilege, of picking up their poop. There is even a Facebook site, called Scoop the Poop Austin, which has a call to action for the dogs of Austin: “Hey, Austin Pups! If YOUR owner picks up poop, have him/her submit a photo of you!”

Like I said, it’s a dog’s world.

The Importance Of Austin In The Life Of O. Henry

William Sydney Porter, who was later to become very famous writing short stories under the pen name, O. Henry, was neither born in Austin, Texas, nor became well known for his writing while living in the city, but there is no doubt that his years living in Austin shaped his life in an extraordinary way.

William Porter was born in North Carolina in 1862, and while he was still a teenager, became a licensed pharmacist. In a time period when the disease tuberculosis (then called consumption) took many lives, many people from the eastern part of the United States who were afflicted, or thought they were, travelled west thinking that the drier air would help their condition. Such was the case with Porter, who moved to Texas in 1882 after developing a cough.

For the first few years in the state, he worked on a ranch a considerable distance south of Austin. While on the ranch, he performed a host of odd jobs, but also spent considerable time reading. As with many good writers, Porter was first and foremost a reader.

In the mid-1880’s, he made his way to Austin. In the ensuing 16 years he lived in Austin, he held many jobs, including as a draftsman at the Government Land Office meticulously drawing maps, and as the publisher of a newspaper he started called The Rolling Stone. The shaping of his destiny, however, came from neither one of these jobs, but, from other events, which subsequently occurred in Austin.

Among the happiest events in Porter’s life were his marriage to Athol Estes, and then, the subsequent birth of his daughter, Margaret. The later events, and the most unpleasant, were the circumstances around him being charged and convicted of embezzlement from an Austin bank (many think the charges were without merit), where he worked as a teller, and, the death of his wife from tuberculosis.

Upon his embezzlement conviction, he was sentenced to several years in prison, and was transported to a penitentiary in Columbus, Ohio, to serve those years. Given his pharmacy license, and his knowledge of pharmaceuticals, he was assigned to the hospital ward of the dismal prison, where he had plenty of time to write. Ashamed of his conviction, Porter began writing in prison under the pen name, O. Henry.

His many stories, published while he was in prison, became quite popular. By the time he was released from prison in 1902, he was quite a successful author. He continued that success when he moved to New York City, where he published many more short stories, known for their plot twists and ironic endings. The most notable of these stories, are the “The Gift of the Magi,” and “The Ransom of Red Chief.”

His heavy drinking, which first became apparent during the Austin days, became even more pronounced after his release from prison. Despite his literary success, he died broke in 1910, when he was just 47 years old. His death came as the direct result of his heavy alcohol consumption.

His daughter, Margaret, also became a writer and a promoter of her father’s memory after his death. Unfortunately, she too, like her mother, died relatively early in life of tuberculosis, and was buried next to her father in O. Henry’s birth state of North Carolina.

O. Henry’s home in Austin is a well preserved museum, with many of the original furnishings still present. Managed by the City of Austin, it is located downtown on East Fifth Street, although its original location was a little over a block away on Fourth Street. Today, the land which was the site of the home on Fourth Street is taken up by a hotel. There is no charge to get into the museum, and the museum employee who took me through the house was unbelievably knowledgeable about O.Henry’s entire life (not just the Austin events), his family, the house, and his writings. She was very thorough in her answers to my questions, and I was extremely impressed. While you should expect this from any docent at a historical site, such is not always the case.

Thus, while Austin was the home to O. Henry for only a third of his life, the experiences which took place in the city were exceptionally important to him. These events, both good and bad, although transpiring over a relatively short period of time in his life, shaped who he became, and served as the catalyst for him being one of the great short story writers of all time. That’s an irony that O. Henry would have appreciated.

Hill Country Residents Live In A Destination Site

Everyone says that that the Wednesday before Thanksgiving is the busiest travel day of the year. While the actual “destination” where family and friends are gathered is the part everyone looks forward to, getting there and then returning home is the part everyone dreads.

There are two types of people during the Thanksgiving holiday, those who travel and those who don’t. Those who travel have to endure the unpleasantness of heavy highway traffic, airport delays, long layovers, and stuffing luggage into the overhead bins of jam-packed airplanes. Those who don’t travel, well, they enjoy the benefits of living in a destination site. The Texas Hill Country is not only a destination site; it is an inviting one at that.

Of course, any place someone travels to is a destination site. But some destinations are just a lot more agreeable than others. Let’s face it, if I’m going to go through the packing of bags, long hours on the road, and numerous travel hassles, I’d like to think that at the end of my journey there is something a little more to be enjoyed than huddling around a space heater on some chilly windswept prairie or frozen tundra talking with Grandma and eating a turkey sandwich. If that describes your situation, you should tell Grandma to move to a destination site that people wish to visit. You might incent her to do so by telling her that you would visit more often if she did.

There are many attractive destination sites around the country, but, of course I’m partial to the Texas Hill Country. We’ve got lots of Grandmas down here, and I can tell you, the ones I know weren’t standing in a long line today waiting to pass through the security checkpoint at some airport. They were waiting for their family members to arrive in the hill country to visit them. And many, while they were waiting, played golf or were out on a boat on one of the Highland Lakes.

There were no travels for me today, other than to run into town to grab a coffee and a bacon and cheese croissant. I was not fumbling around trying to find my electronic ticket number, or, waiting for my boarding zone to be called. After my croissant, I rode around on my golf cart, and took the dog for a walk. Boats were plentiful today on Lake Travis, people were walking out on the sand, others were playing tennis, and golfers were improving their game on the local course. But then, I live in the Texas Hill Country, a darn good destination site at that.

Tomorrow’s high (Thanksgiving Day) according to the National Weather Service, will be 38 degrees in a major Midwest City up north. Friday’s high in that same city will be 45 degrees and then 43 degrees on Saturday. Here in the hill country, the respective high temperatures are 68 degrees on Thanksgiving Day, 70 degrees on Friday, and 72 degrees on Saturday. What’s not to like? If your Grandmother lives up in that cold anonymous Midwest City, tell her to get that “For Sale” sign up in her yard and move south to the hill country of Texas. She’ll probably see you a lot more often. Why? Because you will take the time to visit her more as she lives in a pleasant, and most agreeable, destination site, and you’ll be golfing and boating once you get here (with Grandma tagging along, of course).

The State Park Within A City

When you think of a state park, you think of a place where people go to escape the city and the pressures of daily life. But, in Texas, there is actually a state park where you can escape the city and stress, but still be in the city itself. I’m not talking about a state historical site, but a real state park with woods, water, fishing, scenic views, hiking and biking trails. As you might expect, that park would be found in Austin, a city which prides itself on keeping it “weird.”

McKinney Falls State Park is located on Austin’s southeast side. The park is named for Thomas McKinney, who came to Texas in the 1820’s, and years later, established a homestead, bred race horses, and built a flour mill along Onion Creek. Historical remnants of his life are still present in the park, in the form of his home and his horse trainer’s cabin.

There is an interpretive center, and the park also provides activities you would normally expect in a state park. There is camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, sightseeing, and many nice places for a picnic. In addition, however, you’ll find biking trails (so important for Austin’s active biking community), a dining hall which may be rented, an amphitheater, and wireless internet access.

In this, the beginning day of Thanksgiving Week 2009, under clear blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s, I was delighted that the park was crowded with school children, who, it appeared to me, were learning to fish for the first time. It was obvious, as lines, hooks, and fishing bobbers, were strewn among the limbs of the bald oak cypress trees lining the banks of Onion Creek. While I saw no fish being brought to shore, it looked like everyone was having a great time, me included.

For those living in Austin, Texas, there are advantages, not the least of which, is being able to “get away” without having to leave the city itself.

Zilker Botanical Gardens

There is no lack of things to do in Austin, Texas to be sure. But, whether you are an Austin native or a visitor to the city, one place that has to be visited is Zilker Botanical Gardens.

The recent history begins in the 1940’s and 1950’s, when several local garden clubs began raising money and supporting the idea to create the gardens. Finally, in 1964, the gardens were first opened, in cooperation with the City of Austin, which dedicated the land for the site.

This is a relaxing place to spend a couple of hours. The parking lot is relatively small, so it is best to go during the week rather than on a weekend. If you have no choice but to visit on a weekend, you’ll spend a couple of times circling the scenic tropical and sub-tropical flora which line the parking lot, waiting for someone to leave before finding a place to park. If that is stressful in any way, you need not worry. Once you start walking through the gardens that tension will melt away.

The 31 acres of gardens are segmented, by theme, and are connected by walkways. There are gardens dedicated to native plants, cacti, herbs, and roses. In addition, there is the gorgeous Isamu Taniguchi Japanese Garden, replete with bamboo and koi ponds.

And, if you like a little more adventure, the Hartman Prehistoric Garden will provide that. Recently discovered dinosaur tracks have shown that these creatures once walked the land where the gardens now reside. The Hartman Garden replicates the Cretaceous period, with plants originating in the Jurassic period mixed in. The dinosaur which left its tracks in Zilker Park over 65 million years ago was the Ornithomimus. In its honor, a sculpture of the dinosaur is found within this "prehistoric" garden.

And what, you may ask, does the “Zilker” of Zilker Botanical Gardens have to do with any of this? Well, a lot it seems, but not going back millions of years. Andrew Zilker came to the area as a teenager in the mid-1800’s from the Midwest. Working as a dishwasher initially, he eventually became the owner of a business which manufactured ice. This proved to be quite a lucrative specialty in Austin’s hot climate. As a result, Zilker became quite a wealthy and influential person in the area, and bought up land along the Colorado River, some of which he eventually donated to the City of Austin and which includes what is now the botanical park.

It is remarkable how ancient dinosaurs, a teenager seeking to make his way in life, and several garden clubs can make the world more enjoyable for all of us. But they all did. Just visit Zilker Botanical Gardens, and you’ll understand what I mean.

The “Five And Dime” Is Still Around In The Texas Hill Country

The list reads like a roll call of old friends. At one time, stores like Woolworth’s, S.S. Kresge, McCrory’s, W.T. Grant, J.J. Newberry, and S.H Kress were an important part of the shopping experience in America. From the late 1800’s to well into the second half of the 1900’s, nearly every town had a dime store. Before they finally succumbed to changing times, the stores provided inexpensive merchandise to families across the country. They’re all gone now. And while the so-called dollar stores serve the same purpose in this day and age, they just aren’t the same.

Like many other things in the hill country, which continue to thrive despite ever changing times, there is at least one “dime store” still left. It is Dooley’s 5-10-25¢ Store in Fredericksburg. For those of us who still remember and appreciate the heyday of the dime store, Dooley’s provides a place for us to walk “back into time,” if only for a few moments.

For me, the nostalgic experience began as I stepped onto the wood floors I remember so well. This was a good sign, and was a harbinger of things to come. From the layout of the store, to the merchandise very rarely seen anywhere else, it is a wonderful place to visit, and by far, my favorite store in Fredericksburg.

And, while the prices are very reasonable, they are not what they used to be for a dime store, but, given the intervening years between my fond memories and today, I am forgiving. There is always a price to be paid, I think, for preserving the past. I am one, for sure, who will gladly pay it.

Pedernales Falls State Park

The Pedernales River begins from springs in Kimble County and crosses several hill country counties before it empties into Lake Travis. Running through a wild landscape filled with Live oak, Ashe juniper, cypress, and mesquite, the level of the river water rises and falls dramatically depending upon the seasonal cycles of rain.

Historically, the river was essential to the life of Native Americans, Spanish explorers, and European settlers. It was also very important in the life of President Lyndon Johnson, who was born and died, just steps away from the bank of the river. Today, the Pedernales is an important tributary for Lake Travis, and is a provider of hill country recreation. One pleasant spot along the river is Pedernales Falls State Park.

As parks go, this one is quite recent. Established as a park in 1971, the land had originally been a part of the Circle Bar Ranch. The park takes up over 5,000 acres of Blanco County, and is one of the fine natural resources in the hill country.

The major attraction is, of course, the falls. The falls are created by Pedernales River cascading down and over limestone rocks, and while it is in no way comparable to Niagara Falls, it is a quiet and scenic spot. There is a nice observation deck where it is possible to look out over the falls and the entire area; however, most people walk down the steps from the observation area down to the water, where they climb on the rocks in and around the falls. Since the Pedernales, like most rivers in the hill country, are prone to flash flooding, visitors are warned to be vigilant to changing weather conditions. Being out on the river during a sudden flash flood has taken lives in the past. Since the park considers the area around the falls particularly dangerous, it does not allow swimming, wading, or tubing. The large park does, however, have ample areas for people wishing to take part in those activities further downstream. The river also provides great opportunities for anglers, especially those wanting to hook catfish.

The river is not the only attraction in the park. Hiking, sightseeing, photography, and birdwatching are other popular activities which lure visitors to the area. Both modern and primitive camp sites are available for those who wish to spend one or more nights in the park.

Despite the fact that the park is relatively close to both Austin and Johnson City, once inside the solitude of the park, you feel like you are a million miles away from everything. That is a common feeling at so many places throughout the hill country.

Highland Lakes Air Museum

The Highland Lakes Air Museum is located in the hill country town of Burnet at Kate Craddock Field. The museum is managed by the Highland Lakes Squadron of the Commemorative Air Force (CAF), formerly, the Confederate Air Force. Most particularly focused on the World War II era, the museum also displays artifacts from other military conflicts since that time. The museum is proud of the fact that it focuses on the contributions of the average combatant, leaving to others who want to tell the tale of the military’s “sure enough big shots.”

Because it is run by volunteers, the museum hours are mercurial, so it is probably best to make sure the museum is actually open before making the trip. But, even if you find it closed, there is an impressive display outside in the Viet Nam Memorial Garden. The garden displays aircraft of the Viet Nam era, along with an M60 battle tank, a couple of M114 howitzers, and a Nike missile.

The most exciting part of the museum is that the local members of the CAF maintain working World War II era aircraft which they offer for public flights. For those willing to pay the very reasonable fee, they can enjoy an adventure in the sky in a Douglas C-47, the open cockpit Fairchild PT-19, or, a North American AT-6/SNJ Texan. The CAF also holds the annual Bluebonnet Air Show every April right there on, and over, Kate Craddock Field.

One of these days soon, I’m going to take a ride in one of the squadron’s aircraft, and experience what my Dad did, when he was just a young man during World War II, training as a naval aviator over the skies of Texas before he shipped out to combat in the Pacific Theatre. That day will be a reliving of history which is both personal and full of meaning to me.

Down In Luckenbach, Texas Without Waylon, Willie, And The Boys

All hill country travel eventually leads to Luckenbach, Texas, where, as they say there, “Everybody’s Somebody in Luckenbach.” The town, such as it is, first become famous during the 1970’s, but its history goes back well before that.

Located just a few miles southeast of Fredericksburg, Luckenbach was established in the mid 1800’s, and by the late 1800’s, had a post office, general store, and a drinking establishment. The goods and services provided, catered to both the local farmers as well as the native Comanche, who were still prevalent in the area.

The Engel family, which had initially opened the small trading post, was still in control in 1970, when, they put the “community” and its establishments up for sale. Luckenbach was purchased by several local “characters,” including one Hondo Crouch, who promptly appointed himself, Mayor. He eventually made Marge, a decendant of the original Engel family, and the drinking establishment’s bartender, the Sheriff. Other appointments included, a Minister of Agriculture, who received the honor because he was the one who took the eggs to market. Other appointments included ambassadors to other countries. It was all in good fun, of course. Crouch, himself, played guitar, sang, told stories, and was easily recognizable by his white beard and hair.

In 1973, country music singer Jerry Jeff Walker recorded an album in the dance hall which brought the first real fame to Luckenbach. Several years later, in 1977, county music legends Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson, recorded, “Luckenbach, Texas (Back to the Basics of Love),” which became a huge hit, and put this little speck of a place in the Texas Hill Country on the lips of people around the world. Unfortunately, Hondo never experienced the fame the song brought to Luckenbach, having passed away in 1976.

Despite the fact that this small place is extremely difficult to find (a lady in Blanco, Texas, warned me, “Don’t blink or you’ll miss it.”), it provides a place of pilgrimage of sorts for country music fans, historians, curiosity seekers, vacationers, and visitors, from all over the world. A lot of the people hanging around Luckenbach, look just like Hondo Crouch did, with white beards and white hair, and there are always a line of motorcycles in a special parking area just outside the dance hall. During my visit, I did not see Waylon Jennings, Willie Nelson, or any of the “boys,” of course, but I enjoyed the experience just the same.

Despite the historic charm of the place, with the old post office, general store, dance hall, outdoor stage, cold beer, and live music seven days a week, some visitors, it seems, are disappointed. I’m not sure what they expected, but this is a remote part of the hill country of Texas. People who come here from distant places because of the song’s popularity but are then disappointed, perhaps need to listen to the song once again. It’s obvious, that they have missed the message the lyrics are conveying.

Luckenbach, Texas (Back to the Basics of Love) **

There's only two things in life that make it worth livin

'That's guitars that tune good and firm feelin' women

I don't need my name in the marquee lights

I got my song and I got you with me tonight

Maybe it's time we got back to the basics of love

Let's go to Luckenbach Texas with Waylon and Willie and the boys

This successful life we're livin' got us feuding like the Hatfield and
McCoy's

Between Hank Williams pain songs, Newberry's train songs and blue eyes
cryin' in the rain, out in Luckenbach Texas ain't nobody feelin' no pain

So baby let's sell your diamond ring

Buy some boots and faded jeans and go away

This coat and tie is choking me

In your high socitey you cry all day

We've been so busy keepin' up with the Jones

Four car garage and we're still building on

Maybe it's time we got back to the basics of love

Let's go to Luckenbach Texas with Waylon and Willie and the boys

This successful life we're livin' got us feuding like the Hatfield and McCoy's

Between Hank Williams pain songs, Newberry's train songs and blue eyes cryin' in the rain, out in Luckenbach Texas ain't nobody feelin' no pain

Let's go to Luckenbach Texas with Willie and Waylon and the boys

This successful life we're livin' got us feuding like the Hatfield and McCoy's

Between Hank Williams pain songs and Jerry Jeff's train songs and blue eyes cryin' in the rain out in Luckenbach Texas ain't nobody feelin' no pain

** Lyrics of this song or any variation thereof, are the property and copyright of their respective authors, artists and labels, and are provided here for educational purposes only. Please respect the various proprietary rights of the owners.

Old Roadside Parks

Many of the old roadside parks which, at one time, dotted the highways across America are now gone. As the interstate highway system rerouted drivers away from the smaller roads that were once used for long distance travel, the antiquated roadside parks, in many cases, became unnecessary.

Now, modern rest stops line the nation’s interstates providing all the latest comforts. In Texas, we call our interstate rest areas, “safety rest areas,” and these are currently being equipped with free wireless internet access, which is being provided along with the other existing modern conveniences.

Out with the old, in with the new? Well, at least in Texas, not quite yet. During the Great Depression, roadside parks were built along the Texas roads by the hundreds. The parks, built in most cases by teenagers and men in their early 20’s as part of a jobs program, provided shelter from the elements and a place to rest for weary travelers. Using whatever construction material was available at the various locations, the parks and the distinct amenities which were part of the specific park were built by hand.

Today, like the roadside parks in other states which were built along smaller roads in an earlier time, many of them are gone. There are, however, quite a few which still remain in Texas. After 70 years since they were first built, they remain a pleasant and often scenic haven, for motorists who drive roads other than the busy interstates. These remaining roadside parks are the legacy from an earlier time when the country was also in the midst of economic trouble and devastating unemployment. Sometimes, small things make a big difference. The building of these parks helped feed families in difficult financial straits, and left the state with something which can be enjoyed a three quarters of a century later.

I wonder, looking 70 years into the future, what the lasting legacy of this generation will be as it copes with the economic problems and high unemployment of today? I do hope your crystal ball is clearer than mine.

Intimidating Horns and Antlers In The Hill Country

The Texas Hill Country is a beautiful place, and there are a lot of animals running around it with some rather intimidating looking horns and antlers on their heads. Given to self preservation, I always keep my distance.

The Texas Longhorn is probably the best known of these creatures. Brought over to North America from the Andalusia region of Spain five centuries ago, the Texas Longhorn is a very smart, and adaptable animal, which is capable of surviving on very little water, cactus, and brush. It was the animal that became part of the legend and lore of the "Old West" in the late 1800's, during the cattle drives up the famous Chisholm Trail. And, these magnificent animals are found on hill country ranches in abundance.

Texas white-tailed deer are smaller than deer in many other parts of the country, but the bucks still sport an impressive rack of antlers. These deer, like the Texas Longhorn, are a common sight across the breadth and depth of the Texas Hill Country all year long. They typically feed on grass, shrubs, leaves and fruit. And, the bucks festooned with their antlers, look a little menacing, especially during the rut.

And while white-tailed deer walk around my house like they own it, the day I see Texas Longhorns walking up my driveway, is the day the “For Sale” sign goes up.