Bats, Batman, and, Keeping Austin Weird

Austin, Texas has plenty to offer both its citizens and visitors to be sure, but, perhaps, the most unusual thing it offers is the comings and goings taking place underneath the Congress Avenue Bridge.  In fact, during certain times of the year, there are literally millions of comings and goings taking place each and every night.  And the culprits behind all this nightly activity are bats, Mexican free-tailed bats, who make up one very large bat colony.

Mexican free-tailed bats are no strangers to Texas or to Austin in particular, but when Austin’s historic Congress Avenue Bridge was modernized in 1980, the redesign required spaces to be built underneath the bridge infrastructure which allowed for expansion and contraction.  It is in these spaces that bats have found a place to call home, when they are away from their other home in Mexico.

Spanning Austin’s Lady Bird Lake, the official name of the Congress Avenue Bridge is actually the Ann W. Richards Congress Avenue Bridge, named in honor of the outspoken former Texas state treasurer and governor.  Most people still refer to the bridge as just the “Congress Avenue Bridge,” in much the same way that a lot of renamed roads, bridges, and buildings across the country have never caught on with a new name.  But, if a new name didn’t catch on, new digs for millions of bats did, and the rest is history.

The bats that inhabit the bridge are almost exclusively female, and make it their home during the summer months when they give birth to their pups.  At dusk, the bats take off en masse to spend the night consuming vast quantities of bugs down the lower stretches of the Colorado River.  And when they take flight, they provide quite a spectacle for those on or near the bridge.  During the times when the bats are flying, spectators line the top of the bridge, the Austin-American Statesman property, or, watch from open air restaurants which line the lake.  Another popular way to see the bats is to take a boat out underneath the bridge.  If you don’t have your own boat, you can easily purchase a seat on one of the commercial bat excursion boats that tie up just below the Austin Hyatt Regency.

My preferred method for watching bats has always been the commercial boats, and for a couple good reasons.  When the bats are flying, there is no better place to be than directly under the bridge. As these unique winged mammals emerge, the view of them pouring out of the bridge against the backdrop of the darkening sky is simply amazing.  Viewers looking down from the bridge don’t see such a spectacular view.

But, there is another good reason to be in a boat.  The bats are not always cooperative.  On some nights, the bats, for whatever reason don’t explode into the sky.  Instead, they stay hunkered down deep within their protective holes in the bridge.  People, who stand for hours on the bridge, or, at other venues along the lake, have nothing to show for their troubles except disappointment.  This is not as true on a commercial boat.  Prior to the estimated launch time of the bats, the tour boat operators take their passengers on a nice leisurely cruise up Lady Bird Lake.  In the process, passengers (many holding their favorite adult beverage) enjoy viewing a beautiful sunset over the lake, rowing teams in action, a beautiful view of the Austin skyline, and, even the statue of Stevie Ray Vaughn.  So, even if the bats don’t come out in force, those taking the bat boat excursions end up with an enjoyable, or at least an inebriated, evening.

Several weeks ago, I once again decided to go see the bats.  Accompanying a friend on her first trip to Austin, we purchased a couple of boat tickets and enjoyed the pre-bat cruise on Lady Bird Lake just as the sun was setting.  After the lake cruise, and just before we approached Congress Bridge to see the bats, we began getting certain disturbing signals from our so-called “Captain,” who looked like he was not a day over 16.  The long and short of it was that the bats had not been too active recently, so, it might not be a good night to view bats after all.  Of course, nothing of the sort was mentioned prior to the ticket money being exchanged on the dock.  It must have slipped the “Captain’s” mind. True to his word, the bat experience was underwhelming, although, we did see many thousands of bats emerge out from under the bridge.  That may seem like a lot, but not if you are expecting to see a million.

There is always a silver lining to every cloud it seems.  Just as all the spectators were about to take leave, a man suddenly leaped from the bridge, arms spread wide as if in flight, and plunged into Lady Bird Lake.  It seems that a “Batman” had arrived just in time to try and save the evening.  The crowd cheered as the “Batman’s” head suddenly appeared above the dark waters.  The man, no doubt having spent the last several hours imbibing in one or more of Austin’s famed Sixth Street drinking establishments, had apparently gotten his superheroes confused.  It is Superman who can fly and “leap tall buildings in a single bound,” not Batman.  Heck, even I know that.  I also know that "Batman" did his part in continuing to "Keep Austin Weird."

An Annual Austin Tradition: Splashing In The New Year At Barton Springs

One year ago on this very day, I posted a blog entitled, “Splashing In The New Year.” The posting was met with such a complete silence and incredible resounding indifference, that I decided to press my luck, and once again write about the same topic. Some people never learn (that would be me) I guess, but I figure that 2011 has to be better than 2010? If you don’t agree with that statement, you need to stop reading blogs altogether, including mine, and head down to your local community college to take a course on current events, or, whatever else you want to study.

Every year, on New Year’s Day, the Save Our Springs Alliance, in Austin, Texas, hosts the annual Polar Bear Splash at Barton Springs in Zilker Park. From quite early in the morning until 2 in the afternoon, Alliance members greet the “Polar Bears,” who faithfully migrate to Barton Springs from all over the Texas Hill Country, to splash around in the spring’s ever constant 68 degree temperature. Last year I had the distinct honor and high privilege of just being an observer and photographer, but this year, my sweet, considerate, and loving wife got my lazy butt out of a warm bed and insisted I throw on a pair of “Hawaii” swim trunks and accompany her to Barton Springs at some ungodly hour of the morning.

The Save Our Springs Alliance, the host of the “Splash,” is dedicated to protecting the hill country’s Edward’s Aquifer, as well as related waterways, and the natural and cultural heritage of the hill country, including Barton Springs. It’s a noble and worthwhile goal, which I fully support, and the organization makes the New Year’s Day Polar Bear Splash a lot of fun. People of all ages dress up in all sorts of ridiculous outfits and bathing attire to jump in the springs, including me, who stripped off a silly Hawaiian shirt, to expose an even sillier mismatched Hawaiian bathing suit, before I took the plunge. Others had pirate masks on, wore Hawaiian hula skirts, or tiaras with the words “Happy New Year,” emblazoned on the front. Like every year it seems, the people bundled up in jackets and taking photographs vastly outnumbered the swimmers. One tradition for those who actually venture out into the springs is that you don’t say “Happy New Year” to anyone until you actually dip your head beneath the cold water. To be honest with you, I can’t remember whether I did or didn’t, but my wife was certainly wishing every living thing that she swam by “Happy New Year,” including fish, turtles, and whatever that green stuff is that grows in the springs.

Another element of the annual event is for the visiting swimmers, or should I say, “Polar Bears,” to bring food to share with everyone. Perhaps I’m mistaken, but a lot of people I saw in the chow line never made it down to the springs for a dip. I can understand it I guess, why would anyone forgo another bratwurst covered with mustard for the opportunity to jump into some icy water?

Outside the springs, gawkers looked down at the swimmers, and the S.O.S. Alliance provided free coffee, sold commemorative shirts, and dispensed literature supporting its cause. Of course the event being in Austin, with that “Keep Austin Weird” philosophy, attracted a few others, who it seemed, had a different point of view. But, that did not stop the small children from having fun riding the small gauge “Zilker Zephyr” train around Zilker Park. I love trains, and have ridden this train before. After my swim, I would have liked to ride it again, but I couldn’t bring myself to buy a ticket, and deprive some small innocent child of the opportunity for a ride. But, I must admit, the thought did cross my mind, and not just once, but several times.

Given all the silly costumes I saw today, nothing was sillier than someone who wasn’t trying to be silly at all. A young bearded version of Ringo Starr, wearing those expensive “get darker as the sun gets brighter” sunglasses, walked around the pool for hours cloaked in an expensive white bathrobe, with a white towel slung over his shoulder talking on his cell phone. Perhaps he finally did, but I never saw him get into the water. My recommendation for his New Year resolution is quite simple, try to spend at least one hour a day without your cell phone smashed against your ear.

As in the past, I had a lot of fun today, and I’ll miss the event until it arrives again exactly one year from now. It’s for a good cause, and, hopefully someone from the S.O.S Alliance, or, quite frankly anyone else will actually acknowledge reading the posting about the “Splash” this year. “Green” is the new buzz-word apparently, but in my experience, “Old" and "West,” are tried and true buzz-words, and words which people actually like reading about.

Austin’s Underappreciated Attraction

With all the things to see and do in Austin, Texas, it is understandable that some attractions are a little more popular than others. The Texas State Capitol Building, Sixth Street, Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Zilker Park, and Barton Springs Pool are but just a few of the many sites representative of the city. These great sites, along with hundreds of wonderful places to eat, command the attention of both visitors and locals alike all year long. There is one attraction however, which never seems to show up on any “Top 10 Things to See and Do in Austin” list. And, that’s unfortunate, because it truly is one of Austin’s best kept secrets.

One day last week, I headed over to one of the oldest active military facilities in Texas, Camp Mabry, to see the BG John C.L. Scribner Texas Military Forces Museum. The camp was established in Austin in the 1890’s, and named for Brigadier General Woodford Mabry, who was then the Adjutant General of Texas. Soon after the camp was established, he left his post as Adjutant General, to fight in the Spanish-American War. And, although he died in Cuba in 1899, the camp he established in Austin, and the one which bears his name, is still an active military post, and remains the headquarters for the Texas Military Forces. These forces include the Texas Air National Guard, Texas Army National Guard, and Texas State Guard.

Upon arriving at Camp Mabry, visitors have to stop at the gate and present some form of photo identification to get in, and, in addition, they must consent to having the trunk of their automobile searched. All in all, the security stop at the gate only takes a minute or two, and is not much of an inconvenience, especially given the fact that there is no charge to enter the museum.

I have to admit that I really wasn’t expecting to be very impressed with the museum. I figured there must be a good reason for the relative lack of publicity and visitors it receives. But, I was very wrong. What I found, instead, was something that Austin should be proud of publicizing a little more than it does.

The museum itself consists of both indoor and outdoor displays. The museum was first opened in 1992, after years of careful planning. The museum exhibits thousands of military artifacts, and provides an interpretation of the history of the military forces of Texas. From the Texas War of Independence from Mexico, through a host of other wars throughout this country’s history, the military forces of Texas have played a prominent and important role. This historical role is proudly reflected in every part of the museum. The museum is named for Brigadier General John C.L. Scribner, who served in the Texas Military Forces, and was instrumental in making the museum a reality following his retirement.

The indoor portion of the museum is housed in a large building constructed in 1918, and which served as Camp Mabry’s mess hall for many years. The friendly volunteer docents told me that the mess hall, at one time, used steam in the kitchen. Apparently, at some point there was a steam related death, and, ever since, a ghost has been seen in and around the building, or, so the story goes.

As you would expect, the museum building is filled with uniforms, guns, maps, flags, and battle dioramas. However, since the old mess hall is so large, it also contains cavalry wagons, cannons, airplanes, helicopters, jeeps, tanks, armored vehicles, and communication vans. It even contains relatively obscure displays, like the immersion heater, which ensured that the mess kits of common foot soldiers were kept bacteria free. Additionally, there are numerous handouts which provide information on the military displays at the museum, important Texas battles, Texas Military Forces in World War II, wartime recipes, and a walking tour of the historic sites of Camp Mabry. There is also a small gift store, with books, postcards, and other small items you can purchase to both support the museum and to help remember your visit.

Outside, the military displays are impressive. There are several areas to visit: Armor Row, Artillery Park, and the Static Displays. Armor Row consists of tanks, self-propelled howitzers, armored personnel carriers, bulldozers, mortar carriers, tow vehicles, and many other armored vehicles. Artillery Park consists of American, French, German, and Soviet artillery pieces. The Static displays include both American fighter jets and helicopters. The outdoor display of military firepower and aircraft covers quite an area, so make sure you are wearing your walking shoes.

Sad to say, but the day and time I visited the museum, I was the only visitor there. The good news was, I had the whole place to myself. The bad news was, I had the whole place to myself. The volunteer docents were very accommodating, and eager to show me around. Given that I was the only visitor at the time, they asked me if I enjoyed the museum, and, if so, would I tell others to come visit? Given my positive experience, I told them I would definitely tell others, and, it is a pleasure to do so.

Why more people, both visitors and locals, don’t visit the museum is a mystery to me. Perhaps, it is because it does not fit in with the slogan which Austin brands itself with, that slogan being, “Keep Austin Weird.” There is certainly nothing "weird" about the many thousands of Texans who have served in the military forces of Texas from the 1830's to this present day. And, while the museum highlighting their service may be underappreciated, the historical service of these brave members of the Texas Military Forces is very much appreciated.

Chicago Hot Dogs ... Texas Style

There is really no true substitute for having a “Chicago Style Hot Dog” anywhere else but the city which gave it the name. There are, of course, times, when it seems, you have to settle for the next best thing.

First of all, let’s define what makes a regular hot dog a Chicago Style Hot Dog. It consists of an all beef hot dog, bright green sweet pickle relish (not the stuff most of us find on the grocery shelf), plain yellow mustard, pickles, onions, tomato wedges, sport peppers, and, celery salt on a steamed poppy seed bun. I’m not expert enough to describe the correct order of assembly, but those are the basic ingredients.

Since most of us around the country don’t live in Chicago, or get to visit there all that often, we have to settle for the next best thing, at least with respect to a Chicago hot dog. And, the next best thing down here in Texas, while perhaps a little different than in Chicago, is a great Chicago style dog.

Dog Almighty, located on South Lamar in Austin, is the local Texas purveyor of Chicago style hot dogs. True to the Chicago original, it serves grilled beef hot dogs, with tomatoes, pickles, bright green relish, onions, plain yellow mustard, and celery salt. But, there are a few differences. The bun, rather than being steamed, is toasted, and there are no poppy seeds. And while I don’t miss the poppy seeds all that much, I rather enjoy the toasted bun. While toasted buns are not traditionally a part of Chicago style hot dogs, they are definitely a part of the history of the American hot dog.

If for some really strange reason you are not enamored with Chicago style hot dogs, you have plenty of other choices at Dog Almighty, including veggie and turkey dogs. There are a lot of locally created Texas hot dogs on the menu, and, if none of those suit you, you can order “The Slacker Dog.” If you order this hot dog, you can pretty much create the hot dog of your dreams. You start from scratch with the hot dog itself, and then add one or more of the many available ingredients and condiments Dog Almighty has to offer. I’ve never ordered a “Slacker,” because if I did, I would get it with exactly the same ingredients as the Chicago style hot dog, which, of course, would be pointless.

Eating Chicago style hot dogs on South Lamar in Austin may be a little different than eating one on West Ontario Street, West Grand Avenue, or one of the countless other locations in Chicago, but it’s the next best thing. And, in my opinion, the “Chicago Dog” at Dog Almighty, is an excellent choice for those of us living in and around the Texas Hill Country, who need to enjoy a little bit of Chicago from time to time.

Lessons Of Life, Like Rules, Are Meant To Be Broken: A Great Cuban Sandwich In Texas

One of the things which life has taught me, is that the farther away you get from the original of something, the less likely it is to be as good. But, the lessons of life, like rules, are sometimes meant to be broken.

An older brother of mine, Rick, introduced me to my first Cuban sandwich at a place in Tampa many years ago. That place was called Hugo’s Spanish Restaurant. And, although that was a mighty long time ago, it was a mighty fine sandwich, and I’ve never forgotten it.

Of course, like all historically popular foods, there is disagreement over what constitutes the “real” Cuban sandwich. To determine what was in the original sandwich, you need to look back to the geographical source. I’m not sure if anyone can legitimately determine whether the sandwich itself actually originated in Cuba, Tampa, or somewhere else in Florida. But, since Florida is less than 100 miles away from Cuba, I’m not going to spend a lot of time quibbling about it here.

I believe, right or wrong, that traditionally, a true Cuban sandwich consists of the basic components of Cuban bread (sometimes sliced at an angle), roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, very thinly sliced dill pickles, and mustard. In some cases, mayonnaise, tomato and lettuce are added. What Cuban sandwiches all have in common, is that they are heated and pressed in a hot iron press.

Over the years, as I have sought out other Cuban sandwiches around the country, I have often been disappointed. In many cases, while the sandwiches may have had the correct basic ingredients, they also had the very “life” squeezed out of them by some overzealous restaurant employee operating the hot press. The end result, were sandwiches with bread so hard it could crack a tooth, and meat absolutely devoid of any moisture whatsoever. To make matters worse, the sandwiches were often served with a side of potato chips. I don’t claim to be an expert on Cuban cuisine, but I can’t believe that potato chips are on the list. Like I mentioned earlier, the farther away you get from the original of something, the less likely it is to be as good. But, of course, there are exceptions.

It is not surprising that I found an excellent Cuban sandwich being served up out of a trailer in Austin, Texas. Austin is a town which prides itself on being different and weird, but it is also a town filled with both a lot of young entrepreneurs and a lot of trailer food. When entrepreneurs, trailers, and food combine, the results are often spectacular.

The Texas Cuban Sandwich trailer has been located on Austin’s South Lamar Boulevard since September of 2009. Relative newcomers to the trailer food offerings in South Austin, the two young entrepreneurial owners have quickly established themselves and have built quite a following. There is little wonder why. Whether you are eating a Cuban sandwich for the first time, or have eaten hundreds of them over the years, this sandwich is worthy of mention.

The menu is rather limited, but by no means is that an impediment. This is, after all, a small trailer, and not a sit down restaurant. The focus, as it should be, is on the sandwich. The “Texas Cuban,” as you would expect, is an oversized Cuban sandwich reflecting the size of Texas itself. The smaller, “El Cubano,” is what I ordered, and unless you are sharing the sandwich with someone, or have a Texas-sized appetite, it is big enough for one person. The sandwich has all the ingredients which you would expect in a traditional Cuban, including, pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and thinly sliced deli-style crunchy pickles. Mayo and mustard, however, are served on the side. But, there are some differences. The pressed Cuban bread, while correctly cut, is flavored with garlic, and, in addition to the Swiss cheese, provolone cheese is also added. Since I’m a fan of both, I liked this “twist” to the traditional sandwich. The best thing of all was how moist the sandwich was. While the bread was nicely pressed, the meats and pickles inside were unbelievably moist.

Every Cuban sandwich from the trailer is served with fried plantain chips. The chips were thin, crispy, and salty, and provided a perfect complement to the sandwich. The sandwich aside, I could easily go back just for the plantain chips. If you want a beverage, you pull it out of an ice box which sits outside next to the ordering window.

What a great sandwich coming from a couple of guys operating out of a trailer. Despite the fact that Texas is across the Gulf of Mexico from both Cuba and Florida, the distance has not changed the quality of this Cuban sandwich one bit.

Lighting Up The Past: Austin’s Moonlight Towers

It’s hard to believe these days perhaps, but there was a time before ambient light polluted the night sky, that even some of the largest cities in the country were quite dark after the sun went down. This produced problems, not the least of which was increased evening crime.

In the late 1800’s, as innovations in technology made it possible, many municipalities turned to carbon arc lighting to brighten their streets, or, more specifically, their entire town. Unlike street lights which light up a relatively small area, the arc lights were hoisted on top of tall metal towers, sometimes hundreds of feet high. By placing many of these towers in strategic locations around the city, it was possible to light up nearly everything within the city limits. These towers, with their lights, were often called Moonlight Towers.

In the mid 1890’s, Austin was one of the cities which decided to erect the lighting system. Austin bought 31 towers with accompanying lighting equipment from Detroit, Michigan, a city which had received a lot of favorable press since installing the system itself.

Many citizens in Austin, perhaps not as technologically sophisticated as those living in Detroit at the time, worried about the ill effects of living in a city where it would never get dark. Some predicted dire consequences on everything from animals to plants. It didn’t take long after the lights were first lit, however, for the skeptics to see that the ever-present artificial “Moon Light” was harmless.

Over the years, the unique lighting system, which had been installed in so many places around the country, has been phased out in favor of lighting which is easier to maintain and much less expensive. The one exception is Austin, Texas. The city remains the country’s sole remaining location where the towers are still present and the lights illuminate the city from very high above, every night of the year.

Of course, with the passage of time, the towers have all been repaired and restored, and the technology of the lights updated. The actual number of existing towers has been reduced, for one reason or another, by about half. Critics over the years have cited both cost and the unsightliness of the towers to call for their removal, but to no avail. This is Austin after all, a city which takes pride in being different. This city pride, which has preserved the towers and the special lighting system, continues to "lighten" a tangible link through Austin’s past. For that, we can all be grateful.

Splashing In The New Year

While many people around the world were “ringing” in the New Year with alcohol, music, fireworks and traditional meals, there were others who brought in the New Year with a splash. Members of Polar Bear organizations around the globe celebrate the promise of the coming year by swimming in the coldest bodies of water they can find.

In Moscow, where ice swimmers call themselves, morzhi (walruses), instead of Polar Bears, the swims are undertaken in extremely frigid water underneath holes in the ice of streams, rivers, and lakes. The swims in these icy waters are normally accompanied by single digit or below zero air temperatures, making for more than just a refreshing dip. And while neither the New Year’s day water or air temperatures in the hill country approximates (thankfully) what is found in Moscow, or in a great many locations in this country for that matter, it does takes a special person to climb out of a warm bed and jump into some cold water on the first day of January.

Although it warmed up later in the day, at 10:00 this morning in Austin, the air temperature was in the mid 40’s. The water temperature in Austin’s Barton Springs Pool at Zilker Park at that same hour was around 68 degrees. These were the conditions which greeted members of Austin’s Barton Springs Polar Bear Club for its annual rite of passage held on the first day of every year. The cold January swim was not just for members of the club, however, but for anyone who wished to enjoy the invigorating benefits of the dip in the always chilly Barton Springs Pool. Although I did not jump into the cold water myself (as I rationalized that someone had to take photographs and carefully document the event), my wife, very much enjoyed her time in the water.

People of all ages, from children to elderly senior citizens, participated in the swim. Some of the swimmers wore some very interesting, unusual, and colorful swimming attire. While many of those taking the plunge into the water did not stay in for very long, there were others who seemed to be energized by the water and lingered for quite some time. There is no doubt that those who watched the event far outnumbered those who swam. But either way, everyone was laughing and having a great time. I even wished, very briefly at one point, that I had brought my swim suit. Happily for me, however, that thought quickly disappeared as I regained some semblance of my good senses.

The Save Our Springs Alliance, an organization dedicated to protecting the natural water resources in and around the hill country, was on hand to promote the event and dispense free hot coffee. There was also free food available which was enjoyed by both swimmers and spectators alike. The swim today was indicative of most all the events in Austin and the surrounding hill country, with people coming together and having a lot of fun.

And, while I’m sure that many hearty ice swimmers in Moscow, and other colder locations around the world, would discount the “cold swim” at Barton Springs as being too warm to even mention, the local swimmers did what they could with the climate and waters with which they were blessed. And, unlike most of us, they splashed in the New Year, in a healthy and exhilarating way, and had an enjoyable time doing it.

The “Live Music Capital Of The World” Greets Visitors With Some Very Large Guitars

Soon after visitors step off arriving airplanes at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport, they are reminded in a very big way, as though they need any reminding at all, that Austin is indeed the “Live Music Capital of the World.”

While music lovers disembarking off planes will instantly recognize the distinctive shape of the Gibson Les Paul guitar sculptures displayed at the airport, they will be unfamiliar with the size of the guitars. The eight guitars, made from fiberglass, are each 10-foot tall and are decorated by different artists.

Austin businessman, Milton Verret, purchased the “Big Guitars” a couple of years ago at an auction to raise money for local Austin area charities, and then donated them to the city of Austin. Given Austin’s live music tradition, there probably could not be a more appropriate gift to the city.

Les Paul, the musical genius and inventor of a great guitar, died during this past year. Long before he passed, however, he was already a legend. It appears that the size of his guitars, like the music legend himself, will continue to grow with each passing year. And the contributions of Les Paul to the history of music, as now reflected by the “Big Guitars,” could not possibly have a better home than the “Live Music Capital of the World,” Austin, Texas.

Austin Is Still Waiting For The Golden Spike

The Texas Hill Country is a positive place, so, my observations and commentary are most nearly always positive. But, as a historian, there are times when I have to “pull back on the reins,” and call things as I see them.

It was in 2004, when the voters of Austin, Texas, approved spending money to authorize a short thirty mile rail line to carry commuters from Leander south to downtown Austin. I won’t even get into the money spent, and the fact that the hours the train will run are basically just during rush times and nothing more. And, despite the fact the train is not even running yet, there has already been a fare increase. In my humble opinion, something is “asleep at the switch.”

As an observer, and commentator, here is what I have to offer on the matter. With apologies to the mysterious author Watty Piper, if he, she, or it really ever existed, the Austin rail project is The Little Engine That Could Not. Despite the fact that the actual rail was already in place, given that it is an existing freight line, it is now December 2009, coming up on two years since the original scheduled opening, and nearly six years after the vote, and still no train is running.

As a historian, here is what I have to offer on the matter. The Transcontinental Railroad, a span of over a thousand miles, was built in just six years between Iowa and California. There was no existing track, it was started in the midst of our momentous Civil War, and the engineering and logistical challenges across the frontier were enormous, especially over the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

As an observer, commentator, and historian, here is what I have to offer on the matter. Both the Austin Rail project and the Transcontinental Railroad took six years to complete. The Transcontinental Railroad was built from scratch and covered over a thousand miles. The Austin Rail project used an existing rail line and covered a little more than thirty miles. The Transcontinental Railroad spanned the Great Plains and mountain ranges. The Austin Rail project, well, to be kind, did not.

To sum it all up, in my humble opinion, if the Austin powers to be, were in charge of getting the Transcontinental Railroad built, we’d still be waiting, over 140 years later, for the golden spike to be driven into the rail bed in Promontory Summit, Utah. The circumstances speak for themselves.

Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m all for the commuter rail. But, I would like to see the hours expanded, once this darn thing gets running, if it ever does. In any event, get that “golden spike” driven into the ground. In the meantime, we’re all waiting. The deserted passenger platforms, from Leander to downtown Austin, look a little sad at this point.

The Lighter Side Of Hill Country Food

A lot of the food in the Texas Hill Country, while delicious, can be just a bit too much on some days. Especially during the hotter weather, some foods on the lighter side, often sound more appealing than beef brisket, gravy covered chicken fried steak, sausage, or refried beans.

In South Austin, you can walk away from a heavy meal, by literally getting on, not off, a beaten dirt path. Lulu B’s is a trailer, which sits on a shaded but undeveloped lot, on South Lamar. The menu is quite simple, consisting of inexpensive Vietnamese sandwiches, vermicelli bowls, and summer rolls. Meat offerings with respect to both the sandwiches and vermicelli bowls are chicken and pork, but vegetarian selections are also available.

After placing your order at the trailer window, you can sit at one of the portable tables set up under the trees, and wait for your name to be called. Once your food is ready, you can either eat right there in the great outdoors, or take your order with you.

The other day, like most folks do, I parked in front of the strip mall next door, and walked over to Lulu B’s. Even though it was well past the noon hour, there were still eight people who, having already ordered, were standing around and talking. I placed my order, and within a few minutes, was on my way.

My selection was a favorite of mine, the grilled chicken sandwich. The marinated grilled chicken is placed on a baguette, and served with carrots, chili, cilantro, cucumbers, and a type of Asian radish. The bread is soft, and the ingredients, with its mix of flavors, makes for a very nice, light and refreshing, sandwich.

Since enjoying my Lulu B’s grilled chicken sandwich the other day, I have since returned to eating the more traditional foods the hill country has to offer. But, every once in a while, it is nice to have a place to go to which provides something to eat on the lighter side. And, that place, for me, is Lulu B’s.

Waterloo Records: A Store From Another Place And Time, But With A Big Difference

When I was growing up, record stores were a special place to visit. This was before the big-box chain record and electronic stores took over everything. Back in those days, with a little luck, a buck, and a few cents additional for tax, you could get the latest 45 rpm “hit” of your favorite singer or band. Those family operated record stores always had the Cash Box or Billboard charts posted on the wall, the 45’s in small shelves behind the counter, and albums stuffed in wood racks in crowded aisles. And, the owners were always knowledgeable about music they were selling.

Over the years, the technology changed, and record albums and 45’s were eventually replaced by 8-track tapes, then cassettes, and later still, by CD’s. And while CD’s are still around, they are slowly losing popularity as the ability to buy music off the internet increases.

The family record shops, for the most part, are long gone. So too, it seems, are the big box-chain record stores. Today, major electronic chain stores still sell CD’s of course, but it’s not the same. While they stock the most commercially popular music selections, they do not carry the music of local bands that have “cut” records, and are looking for a little exposure. In the old days, the small family-owned record shops would always carry several of these records, as a favor to the local musicians, their family, and friends. In most cases, they were vanity records which never amounted to anything, but, from time to time, some success came from them.

If I’ve got you at least a little bit nostalgic, then visit Waterloo Records in Austin, Texas. Started in 1982, it has the “look and feel” of the small record stores I remember when I was younger. There are crowded aisles, with employees who are knowledgeable about the music being sold, a large selection of commercially popular music, the not so popular music, and the music of local musical artists and bands trying to catch a break or two.

Waterloo Records, however, is far different from the small “Mom and Pop” record shops of the past. Like many bookstores that now have authors come in to speak about their books and sign autographs, Waterloo Records has musicians come in to perform and sign autographs. And quite often, these musicians are well-known. This year, Willie Nelson, as but just one example, sang at Waterloo. More recently, on December 5, 2009, Rosanne Cash performed at Waterloo.

But, the real difference that Waterloo Records has from the old family-owned record shops, in my opinion, is the fact that while it protects music’s past, it also embraces music’s future, utilizing the latest technology. While it still faithfully sells music on CD, and on long-playing vinyl albums, it also has in-store listening stations, and sells music online, including downloads. Waterloo Records, bridges the past with the present.

Perhaps, just perhaps, with its attention to the music technology of the past, and with an appreciation of local music, live music performances, and the latest music technology, Waterloo Records will not go the way of its predecessors. But, it still needs to do something about that tiny parking lot. That’s the one thing that hasn’t kept up with the times.

Tree Of Remembrance

Growing tall on the south shore of Lady Bird Lake in Austin, is a tree like so many others, except for the fact that hanging from its limbs are paper swans with a name on each and every one, and a memorial plaque at its base. It is, the “Tree of Remembrance.”

And while the tree, planted in 1993 by House The Homeless, Inc., in remembrance of the homeless who have died on the streets of Austin continues to grow, unfortunately, so do the numbers of homeless deaths in the city since that time. Every November at the site of the tree, a memorial service is held. And while much has changed in the world since 1993, the homeless are still dying on the streets of Austin. So far this year, there have been over 150 homeless persons who never made it off the streets. While Austin is certainly not alone with this issue, it is a tragedy wherever it occurs in this world of ours.

Austin, Texas, along with the neighboring hill country, is blessed with great scenery, important history, wonderful food, outstanding music, exciting events, and interesting people. There are, therefore, a lot of things people living in or travelling through the region can see, but the Tree of Remembrance, is not only something which can be seen, it must be seen.

It’s A Dog’s World

It’s a dog’s world.

Anyone who doesn’t believe that is true has never been to Austin, Texas. The city has 12 places where dogs can be off-leash. One of the larger and more popular off-leash spots is at Auditorium Shores, along Lady Bird Lake. Dogs roaming with their canine buddies at Auditorium Shores have it all going for them.

First and foremost, for a dog, it’s the place to see and be seen in Austin. If you’re a dog, you must know you’ve arrived when your owner takes you there. Dogs can mingle and show off their athletic prowess chasing balls, sticks, flying discs, and whatever else can be thrown for them to retrieve.

Next, dogs at Auditorium Shores “strut their stuff” in full view of the Austin skyline. I’m sure they know, at some level, that residents of high rise condominiums across the lake, with telescopes and binoculars, are watching them shamelessly cavorting and frolicking.

And speaking of the lake, there is a beach, of sorts, where dogs can swim and cool off. I’ve seen bigger dogs swim almost the width of the lake to retrieve a ball an owner has thrown. Michael Phelps is a great swimmer, but I’ve never seen him swim way out into a lake and retrieve a ball with his mouth and bring it back. These dogs, showing off on their own miniature version of “Muscle Beach,” could certainly teach Mr. Phelps a thing or two.

Lastly, the dogs are happy knowing that Auditorium Shores has an ample supply of Mutt Mitt boxes, which provides the owners of the dogs running around without a leash, the high honor, and distinct privilege, of picking up their poop. There is even a Facebook site, called Scoop the Poop Austin, which has a call to action for the dogs of Austin: “Hey, Austin Pups! If YOUR owner picks up poop, have him/her submit a photo of you!”

Like I said, it’s a dog’s world.

The Importance Of Austin In The Life Of O. Henry

William Sydney Porter, who was later to become very famous writing short stories under the pen name, O. Henry, was neither born in Austin, Texas, nor became well known for his writing while living in the city, but there is no doubt that his years living in Austin shaped his life in an extraordinary way.

William Porter was born in North Carolina in 1862, and while he was still a teenager, became a licensed pharmacist. In a time period when the disease tuberculosis (then called consumption) took many lives, many people from the eastern part of the United States who were afflicted, or thought they were, travelled west thinking that the drier air would help their condition. Such was the case with Porter, who moved to Texas in 1882 after developing a cough.

For the first few years in the state, he worked on a ranch a considerable distance south of Austin. While on the ranch, he performed a host of odd jobs, but also spent considerable time reading. As with many good writers, Porter was first and foremost a reader.

In the mid-1880’s, he made his way to Austin. In the ensuing 16 years he lived in Austin, he held many jobs, including as a draftsman at the Government Land Office meticulously drawing maps, and as the publisher of a newspaper he started called The Rolling Stone. The shaping of his destiny, however, came from neither one of these jobs, but, from other events, which subsequently occurred in Austin.

Among the happiest events in Porter’s life were his marriage to Athol Estes, and then, the subsequent birth of his daughter, Margaret. The later events, and the most unpleasant, were the circumstances around him being charged and convicted of embezzlement from an Austin bank (many think the charges were without merit), where he worked as a teller, and, the death of his wife from tuberculosis.

Upon his embezzlement conviction, he was sentenced to several years in prison, and was transported to a penitentiary in Columbus, Ohio, to serve those years. Given his pharmacy license, and his knowledge of pharmaceuticals, he was assigned to the hospital ward of the dismal prison, where he had plenty of time to write. Ashamed of his conviction, Porter began writing in prison under the pen name, O. Henry.

His many stories, published while he was in prison, became quite popular. By the time he was released from prison in 1902, he was quite a successful author. He continued that success when he moved to New York City, where he published many more short stories, known for their plot twists and ironic endings. The most notable of these stories, are the “The Gift of the Magi,” and “The Ransom of Red Chief.”

His heavy drinking, which first became apparent during the Austin days, became even more pronounced after his release from prison. Despite his literary success, he died broke in 1910, when he was just 47 years old. His death came as the direct result of his heavy alcohol consumption.

His daughter, Margaret, also became a writer and a promoter of her father’s memory after his death. Unfortunately, she too, like her mother, died relatively early in life of tuberculosis, and was buried next to her father in O. Henry’s birth state of North Carolina.

O. Henry’s home in Austin is a well preserved museum, with many of the original furnishings still present. Managed by the City of Austin, it is located downtown on East Fifth Street, although its original location was a little over a block away on Fourth Street. Today, the land which was the site of the home on Fourth Street is taken up by a hotel. There is no charge to get into the museum, and the museum employee who took me through the house was unbelievably knowledgeable about O.Henry’s entire life (not just the Austin events), his family, the house, and his writings. She was very thorough in her answers to my questions, and I was extremely impressed. While you should expect this from any docent at a historical site, such is not always the case.

Thus, while Austin was the home to O. Henry for only a third of his life, the experiences which took place in the city were exceptionally important to him. These events, both good and bad, although transpiring over a relatively short period of time in his life, shaped who he became, and served as the catalyst for him being one of the great short story writers of all time. That’s an irony that O. Henry would have appreciated.

Guitarist Stevie Ray Vaughan And Austin, Texas Are Inseparable

Mention Austin, Texas, and people think of live music. Mention Austin and live music, and people think of Stevie Ray Vaughan. They are inseparable, and always will be.

Born in Dallas in the fall of 1954, Vaughan took to music at a very early age, and by his late teens, he had already quit school and was playing in Austin’s lively music scene. Playing in many different bands over the years, Vaughan gained a reputation as a very good blues guitarist in the Austin area. In the early 1980’s, he played on David Bowie’s, Let’s Dance, album. From then on, he became very famous, very fast, along with his band, Double Trouble.

Along with the rise to stardom, however, came an addiction to alcohol. In the late 1980’s, he checked himself into a rehab, and came out sober. And while his musical talents on the guitar continued to bring him great success, it all came to an abrupt end in 1990. Following a concert in Wisconsin, he boarded a helicopter which crashed soon after it took off. Vaughan perished in the crash, at the young age of thirty-five.

Following his death, it was not lost on anyone in Austin that Stevie Ray Vaughan and the city were connected to such an extent, that they could never be separated. In 1994, the City of Austin erected a memorial statue, in his honor, near the site of many of his Austin concerts, on Auditorium Shores.

It’s been nearly twenty years since his death, but in Austin and around the world, he is still remembered as one of the great guitar players of all time. And, locals and visitors alike visit the statue in great numbers every year, and many, leave small tokens and offerings to his memory.

And like Buddy Holly and J.P. Richardson (The Big Bopper), two other Texas musicians who, similarly died in an aircraft crash shortly after takeoff over thirty years earlier, the music that Vaughan, Holly, and Richardson made did not die, but lives on, even though they’re long gone.

The State Park Within A City

When you think of a state park, you think of a place where people go to escape the city and the pressures of daily life. But, in Texas, there is actually a state park where you can escape the city and stress, but still be in the city itself. I’m not talking about a state historical site, but a real state park with woods, water, fishing, scenic views, hiking and biking trails. As you might expect, that park would be found in Austin, a city which prides itself on keeping it “weird.”

McKinney Falls State Park is located on Austin’s southeast side. The park is named for Thomas McKinney, who came to Texas in the 1820’s, and years later, established a homestead, bred race horses, and built a flour mill along Onion Creek. Historical remnants of his life are still present in the park, in the form of his home and his horse trainer’s cabin.

There is an interpretive center, and the park also provides activities you would normally expect in a state park. There is camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, sightseeing, and many nice places for a picnic. In addition, however, you’ll find biking trails (so important for Austin’s active biking community), a dining hall which may be rented, an amphitheater, and wireless internet access.

In this, the beginning day of Thanksgiving Week 2009, under clear blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s, I was delighted that the park was crowded with school children, who, it appeared to me, were learning to fish for the first time. It was obvious, as lines, hooks, and fishing bobbers, were strewn among the limbs of the bald oak cypress trees lining the banks of Onion Creek. While I saw no fish being brought to shore, it looked like everyone was having a great time, me included.

For those living in Austin, Texas, there are advantages, not the least of which, is being able to “get away” without having to leave the city itself.

Stand Up Paddle Boarding In Austin, Texas

Living most of my life in various parts of the landlocked Midwest, I’ve somehow missed a growing trend in water recreation which has been getting increasingly popular around many areas around the globe. It’s called, Stand Up Paddle Boarding, or "SUPing," for short.

Although I’ve been to Hawaii many times (although it is true that it has been quite a few years since the last visit), I never saw it there. The same is true for California. While I’m told these are major areas for the sport, and perhaps, where it all began, I never saw it. Perhaps, my eyes were focused on other things at the beach. Whatever the case, the sport is here to stay, and I saw it on Lady Bird Lake in Austin, Texas for the first time.

As I just recently discovered this water sport, I’m not an expert by any means, but it consists of a person standing on a board, with a paddle to maneuver, in whatever water body the person happens to be on at the time. Austin’s Lady Bird Lake, of course, is no Pacific Ocean by any means. In Austin, Lady Bird Lake does not experience the 20 foot waves common during the winter months on Hawaii’s North Shore or, the 10 foot waves in California, but, it still looks very challenging and a lot of fun.

Like traditional surfing, I presume that balance is important, especially if the water is rough. Having not seen someone "SUPing" in large ocean waves, I’m not sure if, at times, they use the paddle like a balancing pole on a high wire act. In any event, it looks like a certain amount of skill is required.

After a little homework, I discovered a couple of interesting things. First, the boards are not inexpensive. They range from around $700 to $1,500, with the paddles being an additional cost. I also learned that a supplier of Stand Up Paddle Boards is headquartered in Austin, Texas. SUP ATX, of Austin, focuses on providing boards for lakes, where it believes there is a large market potential. I don’t disagree with the company’s assessment on this point. As there are far more lakes in the world than oceans (as evidenced by just the Highland Lakes found here in the hill country), it makes sense that the market promise on lakes is substantial. Additionally, from the perspective of someone on one of these boards, it has to be easier to navigate on a lake, of whatever size, than any ocean.

The first time I saw someone paddling a board on Lady Bird Lake, he was outrunning the tourist boat I was on (which was powered with an electric motor), not exactly a speed boat, but with a motor nonetheless. Since I wanted to get a photograph, I was hoping our boat would catch up with him, but he just kept pulling farther and farther away. As you might imagine, I was more than a little annoyed. I finally got the photographs I wanted only after he turned around and started heading back in our direction. Either our boat was very slow, or, he was very fast. My vote goes to him. While a bunch of us sat in the boat passively listening to someone ramble on about the sights of Austin, he was getting exercise, balancing himself on a floating board, paddling away, and putting great distance between us and him. And, although I don’t wear a cowboy hat, if I had been wearing one, I would have taken it off and waved to him in respect.

Zilker Botanical Gardens

There is no lack of things to do in Austin, Texas to be sure. But, whether you are an Austin native or a visitor to the city, one place that has to be visited is Zilker Botanical Gardens.

The recent history begins in the 1940’s and 1950’s, when several local garden clubs began raising money and supporting the idea to create the gardens. Finally, in 1964, the gardens were first opened, in cooperation with the City of Austin, which dedicated the land for the site.

This is a relaxing place to spend a couple of hours. The parking lot is relatively small, so it is best to go during the week rather than on a weekend. If you have no choice but to visit on a weekend, you’ll spend a couple of times circling the scenic tropical and sub-tropical flora which line the parking lot, waiting for someone to leave before finding a place to park. If that is stressful in any way, you need not worry. Once you start walking through the gardens that tension will melt away.

The 31 acres of gardens are segmented, by theme, and are connected by walkways. There are gardens dedicated to native plants, cacti, herbs, and roses. In addition, there is the gorgeous Isamu Taniguchi Japanese Garden, replete with bamboo and koi ponds.

And, if you like a little more adventure, the Hartman Prehistoric Garden will provide that. Recently discovered dinosaur tracks have shown that these creatures once walked the land where the gardens now reside. The Hartman Garden replicates the Cretaceous period, with plants originating in the Jurassic period mixed in. The dinosaur which left its tracks in Zilker Park over 65 million years ago was the Ornithomimus. In its honor, a sculpture of the dinosaur is found within this "prehistoric" garden.

And what, you may ask, does the “Zilker” of Zilker Botanical Gardens have to do with any of this? Well, a lot it seems, but not going back millions of years. Andrew Zilker came to the area as a teenager in the mid-1800’s from the Midwest. Working as a dishwasher initially, he eventually became the owner of a business which manufactured ice. This proved to be quite a lucrative specialty in Austin’s hot climate. As a result, Zilker became quite a wealthy and influential person in the area, and bought up land along the Colorado River, some of which he eventually donated to the City of Austin and which includes what is now the botanical park.

It is remarkable how ancient dinosaurs, a teenager seeking to make his way in life, and several garden clubs can make the world more enjoyable for all of us. But they all did. Just visit Zilker Botanical Gardens, and you’ll understand what I mean.

Lady Bird Johnson And Her Legacy To The Hill Country Of Texas

There are many who say that Lady Bird Johnson was the “better half” of the marriage between the 36th President of the United States, Lyndon Baines Johnson, and his First Lady. And, a first lady, she truly was.

Until her death in 2007, Mrs. Johnson was an inspiration to those who knew her personally, but also to those many more who had never met her. During her life, her work to beautify America, through her various projects, left a lasting impact across the nation. Even after her life’s passing, the goal of sustaining and nurturing native plants and landscapes continues.

Things are just a bit more personal down here in the Texas Hill Country, because this is where the Johnson family had its historical roots, where President Johnson first acquired his political base, and where he and Lady Bird raised their family, except for the extensive time they spent in the nation's capital. It is also where, when his long political career came to an end, they both came “home.”

Unfortunately, while the former President did not have many years left after leaving the White House, Lady Bird lived to the age of 94. And, it was in those years following her husband’s death that she helped establish the National Wildflower Research Center. Donating both money and land, but more importantly, her time and influence, she helped set in place a permanent institution in Austin dedicated to preserving the indigenous plants and landscapes of the hill country.

Today, the renamed Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, is located several miles south of downtown Austin, and is a part of the University of Texas. Its 279 acres is open to the public, and provides a peaceful and aesthetically attractive location highlighting the native plants and landscapes of the hill country. The architecture of the buildings reflects the history of the hill country, and over 600 native plants are found on the grounds. A beautiful courtyard, and several streams, highlights the gardens. Center volunteers swarm around the grounds and gardens, pruning, clearing, cleaning, and answering visitor questions.

Various non-strenuous walking trails wind through both forests and meadows, and there are conveniently placed benches to provide both rest and meditation along the way. There is a visitor’s center, a learning center building displaying changing special exhibits, a library, green houses, seed silos, and an auditorium. If you are hungry, there is a cafe for lunch. Overlooking everything is an observation tower from which you can look down upon the center’s gardens, grounds, and buildings.

While the flowers you will see in bloom will depend upon the season you visit the center, a visit in any season will provide great fun and satisfaction, even if you are only remotely interested in native hill country plants. My wife and I again visited the center a couple of days ago, and during this very late October visit, we enjoyed seeing many native plants including the Texas Poinsettia and the American beautyberry. Monarch butterflies were everywhere, and this only added to the enjoyment of our day.

There is always a bonus after spending several hours walking through the gardens, trails, and grounds of the wildflower center. A large gift shop, which offers hats, shirts, wildflower note cards, books, and other things, is a nice place to browse. The books about the hill country are my weakness. There are always more books I want than I have money in my pocket. But, I always manage to buy at least one.

Thank you Lady Bird for all you did to preserve the native wildflowers, plants, and landscape of the Texas Hill Country. You, and your many gifts to this area, are not forgotten by those of us who never had the pleasure of meeting you.

Texas State Cemetery

With the exception of Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia, you’d be hard pressed to find a more historical, better preserved cemetery than the Texas State Cemetery in Austin. But such wasn’t always the case.

Despite its rich history, by the early 1990’s, the cemetery had become deplorable. It was vandal-ridden and unkept. Bob Bullock, who was then the Texas Lt. Governor, stepped up to the task and began an extensive multi-year restoration of the cemetery. To see it today, you would think it has been lovingly taken care of since its inception.

The cemetery has been around since the early 1850’s. After the American Civil War, Confederate military veterans and their wives were buried in the cemetery in great numbers. Today, there are over 2,000 Confederate veterans and their widows buried in a special section of the cemetery.

The cemetery is a peaceful and tranquil place, with many trees, and an abundance of water. And unique to this cemetery, is the fact that a Texas state highway, State Highway 165, runs right through the middle of the cemetery, lined on both sides of the road with flags of the State of Texas. It is less than a mile long, the speed limit is very slow, and it is locked down at night, along with the cemetery.

The famous people buried in the cemetery are a very long and impressive list. From Stephen F. Austin, an early Texan and the first Secretary of State for the Republic of Texas, the historical roll call includes, Confederate General Albert Sydney Johnston killed at the Battle of Shiloh; African-American Hall of Fame baseball player, Willie James Wells (“El Diablo”); Barbara Jordan, the first African-American woman from a Southern state to serve in the U.S. House of Representatives; and, John Connally, Governor of Texas, and later, Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, who was shot in November 1963 in the presidential limousine with John F. Kennedy in Dallas. Tom Landry, the successful Dallas Cowboys football coach, famous for his winning record and that special hat he wore, while interred in Dallas, is honored with a cenotaph.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for many Governors and Lt. Governors of Texas, U.S. Senators, members of the U.S. House of Representatives, Texas Rangers, and, several Texas Medal of Honor recipients.

Additionally, there is a monument to recognize World War II military veterans of the "Greatest Generation" and a monument for military veterans of Vietnam and Southeast Asia, recognizing the sacrifice of this country’s military members during that very long, unpopular, and difficult war, which ended in 1975.

The most important grave and monument in the cemetery, in my estimation, is that of Lt. Governor, Bob Bullock, who saved this historic cemetery from neglect and oblivion.

May God Bless Bob Bullock, and all the souls resting in the Texas State Cemetery.