“Will Ride Train For Grilled Cheese”

On December 13, 2009, I published a less than flattering article about Austin’s attempt to get its light rail commuter train up and running (MetroRail). Among other things, I pointed out that both the “Austin Rail Project and the Transcontinental Railroad took six years to complete. The Transcontinental Railroad was built from scratch and covered over a thousand miles. The Austin project used an existing rail line and covered a little more than thirty miles. The Transcontinental Railroad spanned the Great Plains and mountain ranges. The Austin Rail Project, well, to be kind, did not.” Finally, after experiencing one delay after another, Capital MetroRail finally began service in March of 2010.

Despite the fact that I really like trains, and was looking forward to riding MetroRail once it started service, for one reason or another it took me over a year to decide to climb aboard, but last week, I did just that. And, I must tell you, I enjoyed the experience.

The rail system essentially runs from Austin’s Convention Center downtown north to Leander, a distance of some 30 miles. There are a total of nine stations along the way at which passengers can purchase tickets and get on or off the train. I decided to head downtown from the Lakeline Station, one stop south of Leander. The Lakeline Station had ample parking in its Park & Ride Lot, and the ticket vending machines were easy to use, even to a first-time rider like me. For $5.50, I purchased a MetroPlus Day Pass, which gave me a day’s access to the rail, as well as the bus rail connectors located at the various stations along the route. That’s not a bad price, considering the cost of a gallon of gas is currently between $3.50 and $4.00. Oddly, there is no gate or turnstile to pass through and nobody checks to see if you’ve purchased a ticket. With such an “honor system” in place, I wonder how many people just hop on board for a free ride. Perhaps they have random checks, but there was no evidence of it on the day I took a ride.

Capital MetroRail passed the most important test in my mind when the train arrived exactly on time. And, once it arrived, it didn’t stay long. Based on my experience, a word to the wise is probably in order. Arrive on time for this train or you’ll find yourself without a ride.

I purposely chose a schedule which avoided the so-called rush hour, so I could have a more relaxing ride. Not that the rush hour experience on this train would be anything like in New York or Tokyo, as this is Austin, and things are more than a little laid back down here. But, everything is relative I suppose, and I wanted to be as relaxed as I could possibly be to fully enjoy the experience.

Inside, the cars are squeaky clean, air-conditioned, and have large roomy cloth seats. There is plenty of overhead storage space, and the over-sized windows afford great views. There is a small section in each car with fold down tables. Apparently, this section was designed for people who, unlike me, actually want to get some work done and weren’t just along for the ride. Free, on-board Wi-Fi is available, and the cars accommodate bicycles.

The train was nearly deserted when I came aboard at the Lakeline Station, but with each subsequent stop, it became increasingly more active with people. As the speaker announced the arrival at each station in both English and Spanish, young professionals with laptops, musicians carrying guitars, young mothers with small children, and seniors all shuffled on and off the train. Initially, the rail line from Lakeline Station is mostly in the country. Every once in a while, the train would pass by some freight cars parked on side tracks. Given the fact that MetroRail shares the same track that the freight trains utilize, I was surprised by how smooth the ride was.

 As the train left Howard Station, the country scenery began to disappear and was replaced by urban views. Once past Kramer Station, it seemed as though we were passing right through the middle of people’s back yards. Upon arriving at MLK Jr. Station I got off and jumped on a connector bus, which was already waiting in the parking lot, and rode it to the Texas State Capitol Building. If you haven’t visited the place, it’s well worth a visit. Unlike most state capitol buildings around the country, this one is actually quite popular as a tourist destination, but then again, this is Texas!

The reason for my visit to the building had nothing to do with me playing tourist or having some important political matters to discuss with state legislators. Rather, the purpose of my visit was strictly about food. Simply stated, the cafeteria in the capitol building serves up the best grilled cheese sandwiches around Austin, and you can wash it down with an ice cold bottle of Dublin Dr. Pepper. It really doesn’t get any better than that. And so, I stood in line, got my sandwich and drink, and had a great lunch at about 10:30 in the morning. Now then, I know what you’re thinking. Did this guy really drive from his home to a train station, get on a train and ride downtown, and then take a bus to the capitol building for a grilled cheese sandwich? Yes, I did just that, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

My “official business” at the capitol building having concluded, it was now time to find my way back home. I walked to the nearest rail connector bus stop, and took the bus to the Convention Center Station, where I boarded the train and headed back to Lakeline Station where I had parked my car. All in all, my little trip was a satisfying experience. And, as you can see, I’m very easily amused.

As for now, Capital MetroRail has only the one line, and does not run on weekends or in the evenings. There are discussions underway about possibly rectifying these drawbacks, but politics and money will ultimately decide whether anything is ever done. In the meantime, those who would like to use the rail at times other than normal weekday business hours are out of luck. Nevertheless, I’m really impressed with the way MetroRail has worked out.

My day on the train would have been perfect had it not been for one out of control grandmother on the ride back. Boarding the train downtown with her two small grandchildren, and, presumably her grown daughter, she literally never stopped talking the entire time. She was loud, obnoxious, and had an opinion on everything. She had three conversations going at once, and, if she didn’t know something, she would call someone on the phone to get the answer. She kept fussing at her grandchildren when, in fact, she just needed to close her mouth and relax. I had to chuckle when she told them, “This is the last time Grandma goes on a train ride.” I’m quite sure that her grandchildren were delighted to hear her say that, and, by the way, so was I.

Nine-Pin Bowling And Homemade Food

Prior to moving to the Texas Hill Country, I had no idea there were private bowling clubs, or bowling alleys using nine pins instead of ten, and people, rather than machines, who reset the pins. Apparently nine-pin bowling, or, “nine-pins” as it’s commonly called where played, is popular in Europe, particularly in Germany, but also here in the hill country of Texas.

Although I’m not a bowler by any means, and my name is not embroidered on a bowling shirt, I’ve rolled quite a few bowling balls down bowling lanes in my life. But, I knew nothing of the game of nine-pins until recently. For you real bowlers out there, I’m sure you already know this, but for the rest of us, nine-pins is much different than the game we are familiar with here in the United States. The ball is smaller, the lane is shorter, and there are some other differences involving the rules. Also, there is manual work involved in initially setting and then resetting the pins. I have no interest in anything manual with regard to bowling, not in this age of technology.

My wife and I did not come to the Blanco Bowling Club Cafe to play nine-pins, or ten-pins, or bowl in any way, shape, or form. We just wanted to eat a good lunch as we were passing through town. A resident of Blanco recommended the place as the spot to go where “the locals eat.”

The resident did not steer us wrong. During the day, the bowling lanes are hidden from the front of the restaurant, to such an extent, that if the name on the sign did not mention “Bowling,” you would never know there was a bowling alley there. We weren’t interested in that, in any event, but found the food to be very good.

As I’ve written about the abundance of gravy in the hill country before, I was bound and determined to order something much different during the visit to the Blanco Bowling Club Cafe. I actually felt like something different too, a sandwich, so, I ordered the “Hot Steak Sandwich (with Salad & Fries).” I envisioned some type of steak, on a bun, with the usual toppings. When my order arrived, it looked strangely similar to the chicken fried steak my wife had ordered. While both selections were covered with gravy, my meat was sitting upon pieces of toast, while hers was not. I guess the toast was the “sandwich” part. The word “Hot” in front of the words “Steak Sandwich” on the menu should have tipped me off that this was an open faced sandwich, but I missed it completely. Nevertheless, my “sandwich” was delicious, and it just goes to show you that you get gravy down here, it seems, even when you don’t really want it.

The thing I really like about the hill country is that places like this still exist. Hill country towns, like Blanco, are quaint little places, with historic town squares, where you can still get authentic homemade food in traditional settings. The people, like the ones who served us at the Blanco Bowling Club Cafe, are always friendly and helpful. These are the kinds of places I remember from my youth, but they are quickly disappearing around the rest of the country as the chain restaurants become dominant, even in the smallest of towns. As a result, I’m going to continue patronizing these type of places before they are gone for good.

Hopefully, though, just like the nine-pin bowling which has persisted in the hill country long after automated bowling alleys and ten-pin bowling became the standard everywhere else, maybe the small cafes and restaurants will remain as well.

Friday: Shaved Ice Day

Today marked the end of the first full work week in November. The sky was a brilliant blue, and with the temperature at a pleasant 80 degrees, I decided to have a little fun. I’ve been hearing so many good things about a place selling shaved ice in Round Rock, Texas, that my curiosity got the better of me. On a spur of the moment, I got into the car and drove the relatively short distance to the icy destination in Round Rock.

I’ve enjoyed my share of snow cones and shaved ice over the years, including the shaved ice in Hawaii. It’s always nice to get one I guess, but they all seem to be about the same to me. Snow cones are crunchier than the shaved ice, but other than that, the biggest single factor between a good and a somewhat less than good icy treat is just how much flavored syrup is added. In my estimation, more syrup means a better product. Snow cones and shaved ice are, well, just that. I certainly wouldn’t go out of my way or make a special trip for either one of them. It is just ice and syrup after all, isn’t it?

The place everyone is talking about is called Kawaii’s, which advertises having “Hawaii’s Finest Shaved Ice.” That’s quite a claim, given the fact that its location is in Texas, not Hawaii. Despite hearing about long lines, I had no wait today, most likely given the fact that it was in the middle of the afternoon on a work day. And, while there was no line in front of me, a steady stream of people did come and go as I was eating my ice.

The list of flavors posted on the sign by the walk up window was unbelievably long, which explains another sign on the window telling people to “open the window” when they are ready to order. I can imagine that the sign was put there out of necessity, wanting to prevent the needless waste of cool air conditioning as someone, racked by indecision, reads and then reads again the available flavors and sizes.

I’m not one to be indecisive, and I think that was quite noticeable to the very nice and friendly employee inside, because before I even had a chance to slide the window open, she slid it open for me. The cool breeze blowing from the air conditioner had barely begun rolling out of the building when I quickly said, “small bubblegum flavor, please.” I couldn’t believe how big the “smallest” size was. And unlike those tourist destinations which charge ridiculous prices for what is essentially, ice and little flavor, the price here was very reasonable. But, the best was yet to come.

After watching my cold snack being carefully shaped, and a large amount of blue syrup being poured in, I sat on the outside patio to eat, what I thought, was just going to be one more shaved ice at one more venue. The minute I put the first spoonful in my mouth, however, I immediately realized why this place was so popular. Expecting to taste merely a mouthful of flavored ice, what I tasted instead was something more akin to ice cream. It was smooth and almost had a creamy quality to it. There was no doubt at that point, that I knew my curiosity had been rewarded. This shaved ice was delicious, and definitely different from any other one I’ve ever had. Using the same basic ingredients of ice and syrup that every vendor does, there is an incomparable result.

As I drove away with my tongue stained blue, I was already thinking about coming back. This is one shaved ice location, I thought, which justifies a special trip. It is now hours later, and I still can’t believe how good it was. Tomorrow is Saturday. Maybe I’ll find the time for another road trip.

My Favorite Texas Hill Country State Park – Inks Lake

I must admit, I have a favorite park among the state parks in the Texas Hill Country. It’s Inks Lake State Park. While there are many other wonderful state parks in the hill country, this one is special, at least to me.

State parks have been so very important to me all of my life. As a child, my parents would take “us boys,” all five siblings in the family, camping every summer. While we camped all over the United States, most of our camping was done in Michigan state parks. Except for the climate, the fauna, flora, and the scenery, Inks Lake State Park reminds me of the state parks in Michigan. Y’all must be scratching your heads by now wondering what I mean, or, if I’m crazy.

Based on my boyhood experiences, I judge a state park by many things. First and foremost, the attractiveness of its camping spots. A great state park has somewhat private camping spots that have trees, are near water, have nice views, a grill, and a fire ring. Next in importance, are the presence of hiking trails, and the availability of boating, swimming, and fishing. And last, but not least, there must be a park store. Inks Lake State Park has all of these, and more. Additionally, the park has quite a few small cabins available if you find yourself without a tent, travel trailer, or an RV, and need a place to stay. For golfers, there is a scenic golf course right next to the lake.

Like the other Highland Lakes of the hill country, Inks Lake is formed by a dam on the Colorado River. The area in and around Inks Lake State Park is prominently highlighted by large rock outcroppings of the pink colored Valley Spring gneiss. The area was the scene of cattle ranching during the 1800’s, and, this park, like many others during the 1930’s, was developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

One of the attractions of Inks Lake is the “Devils Waterhole.” It’s a spot where swimmers can jump off a cliff into a pool of deep water. Even if you don’t want to participate in this activity yourself, it is fun to watch.

Yesterday, during our repeat visit, we saw only a relatively few campers. How nice for them. The temperature was in the mid-70’s, with clear blue skies, and a beautiful park all to themselves. We saw many picnic tables at occupied campsites decorated with flowers and plants. These campers were succeeding in making a really nice location even nicer!

Inks Lake lives up to every one of my boyhood expectations of what constitutes a great state park.

The Rising Water Of Lake Travis

The water level of Lake Travis, seriously reduced due to abnormally high heat this past summer, and the effects of a two-year drought, appears to be making a rebound.

Significant weather systems in October brought heavy rain as they made their way across the hill country. As a result, things look much better today than they did a month ago. At first, the rain did little to help the situation, as the parched soil absorbed all of the water and released very little into the creeks and rivers which feed the lake. Eventually, however, as the soil became saturated with water, the runoff started filling the lake.

On September 28th and 29th of this year, the water level stood at 629.8 feet above mean sea level. Today, on November 1, 2009, the level of the lake stands at 647 feet. That’s over a 17 foot rise in just a little over a month. It’s impressive, and important, but there is still a long way to go. Full pool for the lake is 681 feet. So the drought, and its impact on the lake, is still present.

Nevertheless, the positive effects of the rising water is noticeable. My wife and I take a swim every evening in the lake, and during those days when the water level was at its lowest, we had to venture far out into the lake just to reach water above our heads. That’s no longer a problem during our swims. Most recently, we only have to go out a short distance before the lake bottom disappears under our feet. Additionally, many boat docks, which not long ago were landlocked, are now once again connected with the lake.

There are a great many more boats on the water as well. For the most part, the public boat ramps were closed for the summer. This greatly reduced the boat traffic, and by late September, watercraft on the lake almost exclusively consisted of small boats and jet skis. Today, there were yachts, speed boats, sail boats, and fishing boats all over the lake.

And, with respect to those fishing boats, the fishing has picked up considerably with the cooler water temperatures. The fishermen are reporting success catching Black, Striped, and White bass. Crappie and catfish are also being caught.

All in all, it’s nice to see the lake bouncing back. And while things are not yet where they need to be, things are definitely looking better.

Texas Road Courtesy

Two lane rural roads in Texas are very fast. Surprisingly, the speed limit of 70 miles per hour on two lane rural roads in Texas is common. This is faster than the Interstate speed limit in many states.

Drivers coming from other parts of the country, where rural two lane road speed limits are 50 or 55 miles per hour, may find it a bit shocking and uncomfortable when an unrecognizable distant image in the rear-view mirror suddenly becomes the grille of a truck or car just behind you.

Now, if this happens, in most cases, if you look to your right, you will notice an unusually large paved shoulder. I’m not sure of the legality of it all, and I’m not necessarily recommending it, but traditional Texas road courtesy would suggest that you pull over on to the wide shoulder and let the faster vehicle by without it having to cross the center line.

But, that’s not the end of it. Texas road courtesy is just a tad bit more complex than just pulling over and letting the other vehicle pass by.

Things being as they are, it would be rude and discourteous for the passing driver not to wave to acknowledge the driver pulling onto the shoulder, but, also equally rude and discourteous for the driver pulling onto the shoulder to not wave back acknowledging the passing driver.

It’s a Texas thing I guess. What can I say? If you participate in this Texas road "courtesy," including the passing, pulling over, and waving, it is at your own risk and liability. Texans would expect nothing less.

Oktoberfest And Football

This is the season of the Oktoberfest celebrations around the world, including quite a few here in the Texas Hill Country.

St. Mary Our Lady of the Lake Catholic Church in Lago Vista held its annual Oktoberfest today on the parish grounds during a beautiful cool fall day with temperatures in the mid-70's. For well over twenty years, St. Mary’s has hosted the event, with all proceeds, as you would expect, going to local charities.

The “Kid’s Carnival” provided a host of fun rides and games for the younger ones, including a climbing wall and the Wiggle Worm Train. But there were plenty of things for adults as well. A garage sale, country store, silent auction, and raffle were all available for the older folks.

A food court provided hot dogs, hamburgers, and wraps during the day. Soft drinks, snow cones, and beer (for the adults) were also available. Around dinner time, a traditional German dinner was served.

In addition to being the season of Oktoberfest celebrations, it is also football season. And, the organizers of this Oktoberfest knew what they were doing. To make sure that local football fans were present during the day’s Oktoberfest festivities, a large screen TV was available so the faithful could watch Texas beat Oklahoma, 16-13.

Now, pass the beer and Hook ‘em Horns!

He Who Laughs First Is Not Necessarily The One Who Laughs Last

We’ve been trying to get my parents down to the hill country for the longest time. This summer, during our 68 days of 100 degree plus heat, my Dad resisted coming down, claiming it was too hot. And, while we had temperatures in the 90’s this past week, yesterday, on the day of their arrival, the weather was unseasonably cool. Today it’s cool and raining. It’s great to have them down here, but I wish they would have left the cooler weather back up north where it belongs. My Dad must have had this weather planned all along.

My Dad and I hopped into the golf cart this morning to take a drive around the neighborhood. By the time we got back, we were both soaked and cold. He was probably silently laughing during the entire ride. I’m sure that he was thinking that he had picked the perfect week to avoid the hot weather.

He who laughs first is not necessarily the one who laughs last. Temperatures are forecasted to be back into the 90's in a couple days. I’ll be the one laughing then.

Kolaches

You can’t talk about the history, culture, food, and music of the Texas Hill Country without mentioning the waves of German and Czech settlers during the 19th century. Those early settlers left a legacy which still reverberates throughout the hill country today.

One of the legacies which I appreciate is the food. Before moving to Texas, I had never heard of Kolaches. Now, I can’t believe I haven’t been enjoying them my entire life.

The Kolache is a Czech food, and the traditional Kolache is cooked bread-dough filled with various sweet fruits, poppy seeds, or cheese. Americans, being who we are, have expanded beyond the "traditional" fillings to include all kinds of things. And that’s a good thing, because I’m not really wild about sweet foods, although, I do like cheese.

In Texas, Kolaches seem particularly popular for breakfast. I don’t know why that is. The Kolache choices are seemingly endless. I’m going to disregard writing about the “sweet” Kolaches. Sorry, but if you want to find out more about the sweet Kolaches, you’ll have to come to Texas. The same is true with respect to eggs. I’ve just never appreciated the egg in any way, shape, or form, including, inside a Kolache.

My kind of Kolache is filled with meats, cheeses, and potatoes. Bacon, sausage, Polish sausage, meatball, chicken, pepperoni, cheddar cheese, and cream cheese; these are the fillings which excite me. Being a non-traditionalist in more ways than one today, I decided to have two non-sweet Kolaches at a time other than breakfast. My lunch choice today was a warm Philly Cheese Steak Kolache and a hot Sausage Gravy Kolache.

At this point, after eating my two Kolaches, I don’t know what more to say, except maybe to thank the early Czech settlers for their delicious contribution to the hill country.

Don’t Confuse The Colorado River With That “Other” Colorado River

My Mom and Dad are heading down to visit us in the hill country soon, and when I spoke with my Dad on the phone the other day about the pending trip, I mentioned the Colorado River. He said something to me which I’ve heard before, in one variation or another. “I can’t believe that the Colorado River runs through Texas.”

His questioning the location of the river is understandable. When many non-Texans hear “Colorado River,” they immediately think of houseboats on Lake Powell in Utah, rafting through the Grand Canyon, visiting the Hoover Dam and, boating on Lake Mead.

But, there is another Colorado River, and it’s right here in Texas, and like most other things in this state, it’s all Texas. There is nothing Colorado about it.

Beginning with its headwaters in western Texas, just south of the Texas Panhandle, the river runs southeast through the state before it empties into the Gulf of Mexico. Various dams have been built along the river in the hill country creating the Highland Lakes. The lakes the river creates provide water reservoirs, flood control, the generation of electricity, and recreation. Eventually, as it heads toward the Gulf of Mexico, the river brings water to the rice farms near the coast.

Unlike the “other” Colorado River, which actually has its headwaters in the State of Colorado, but then runs through several other states and into Mexico, our Colorado River begins in Texas and it ends in Texas. Like I said, it’s all Texas. Well, except for the name.

Balcones Canyonlands National Wildlife Refuge

There is a Spanish word, “Balcones,” which means "balconies" in English. This is what the first Spanish explorers named the hill country just west of what is now Cedar Park, because the hills looked a like a series of balconies.

Today, the Balcones Canyonlands National Wildlife Refuge encompasses many thousands of acres of rugged hills and canyons. Located a little north of the Colorado River and Lake Travis, and just beyond the western edge of the city of Lago Vista, the refuge is an important habitat to many types of wildlife and native plants.

Balcones Canyonlands provides a sanctuary for several endangered species. Neotropical birds like the Black-capped Vireo and the Golden-cheeked Warbler are at the top of the list. Other birds too, over 250 species, have been spotted around the refuge.

In addition to birds, the Canyonlands is home to many other species, including but certainly not limited to butterflies, dragon flies, spiders, snakes, turtles, frogs, lizards, skinks, bats, armadillos, squirrels, rats, coyotes, foxes, raccoons, deer, feral pigs, and Tooth Cave Pseudoscorpions.

A few of the plants found in the refuge include Ashe junipers (referred to as “Cedars” here in the hill country), Live oaks, Shin oaks, Spanish oaks, Cactus, Mexican-buckeye, Texas persimmon, Texas mountain-laurel, and the Mountain grape, which is only native to Texas.

The refuge is open to the public and offers the visitor a number of entry points, hiking trails and observation decks. The entrance road into just one of the areas, the Warbler Vista area, on RM 1431, just west of Lago Vista, is an unpaved road with an uphill grade as you head in. Restrooms are available (along with a newly paved parking lot), but no water is provided. Please leave the dog at home, as pets are not allowed in the refuge.

There are three walking trails at Warbler Vista; Cactus Rocks Trail (0.6 miles), Ridgeline Trail (.75 miles), and Vista Knoll Trail (1.2 miles). The trailheads are well marked, and the hill country and lake views from the Sunset observation deck are outstanding. Interpretive literature is available in a box near the restrooms.

What you may see or hear during your visit to Canyonlands depends on the time of year you visit. Spring and summer are the peak seasons for Neotropical bird watching, while fall is the time of year when migrating Monarch butterflies, on their way to winter in Mexico, pass through the refuge. I was lucky enough to see one on my visit today.

One side benefit of the sanctuary's protection of endangered species and other wildlife, is the fact that the protected area is a huge tract of hill country land which will never be developed. This ensures future generations the ability to see this remarkable part of Texas, unfettered by residential and commercial development.

The refuge is open during daylight hours, and there is no admission fee.

Decoding Texas Road Signs

Texas, it seems, always has to be a little different.

Everywhere else, state highway signs usually have the state route number inside of an outline of the state, or, simply the route number with a state name. That’s always been easy enough. But here in Texas, things are a bit more complicated. Here, the state highway signs are coded with an FM or RM. Visitors to Texas always want to know what the letters mean.

Apparently, it was important when the rural state roads were established to give them a nomenclature that would have some meaning. While the meaning may be less important today than it was at one time, the signs represent a visible piece of Texas history for today’s motorists.

Let’s decode the signs:

FM: Farm to Market
RM: Ranch to Market

And while we’re on the subject of Texas road sign codes, there are two more you may see from time to time. CR, which means County Road, and RR, which means Ranch Road.

Now then, from now on, there is no excuse for us not finding our way to the market from either a farm or a ranch. FM means Farm to Market and RM means Ranch to Market. But what road do we take if we are not going to the market from a farm or ranch? Or, how do we get back to the farm, ranch, or some place else from the market? There don't seem to be any codes for those situations, and that's a problem.